Measuring for new shocks?

[ChiefJosh]

How do I go about measuring for new shocks? I've relocated the rear lower shock mounts, so I know it's changed. How do I figure out what I need for bumpstops as well?

[Rokhound]

this is one way 89MJay said to do it

 

I always try and set up suspension with about 25% up travel and 75% droop. Meaning all but 1" of the shock travel is being used up on full compression (bumpstops touching).

 

I don't have access to a fork truck so I do it like this...

 

When building the front suspension I hook up all the control arms and pull the coils out. Mount one of front tires. Jack up that side until the tire is within 1" of touching the fender (after final fender cutting). If the bumpstops aren't touching the distance that remains between them is how much bumpstop needs to be added. For instance if you jack it up and the tire is 1" from the fender and there is a 2" gap between the bumpstops I add 2" to the bumpstops so that they touch when the tire is 1" away from the fender.

 

Now the bumpstops are right and I move on to shocks.

 

With the new bumpstops in I fully compress that side of the suspension again (with or without the tire on)(doesn't matter because the bumpstops are right now!) Next I measure the distance between the shock mounts. I add 1" to this measurement. That gives me the compressed length of the shock. Next you fully droop that side of suspension and measure the distance between the shock mounts. This gives me the extended length of the shock. Now I know what size shocks to order.

 

When ordering shocks I usually look for one that has the compressed length that I am needing and whatever travel shock that ends up being is whatever it is.

 

This method of setting up front suspensions gives you most ideal setup. It sets your bumpstops so your tires don't hit. It gives you the most ideal shock for your suspension height that will give you the most droop possible and gives you a shock that isn't too long or too short.

 

I always hate to see nicely built long arm setups where people are running shocks that are way too short. It drastically reduced the amount of droop that they could be getting out of their front end. I have a buddy with a TJ who installed a Full Traction long arm and installed the shocks that they sent with the kit. The shocks were obviously from a smaller lift kit because they were way short for his 6" lift. This caused his front suspension to only droop a limited amount. He could not use the suspension to it's full potential until we measured for the correct shock. After buying the right length shock it flexes amazing!

 

Shew.... tired of typing now. :cheers:

[ChiefJosh]

Any other ideas or methods?

[DirtyComanche]

I guess.

 

 

(I built the shock mounts FOR the shocks...)

[Regger]

Well that is a good method as described... but feel there is a slight mistake...

 

With the new bumpstops in I fully compress that side of the suspension again... Next I measure the distance between the shock mounts. I add 1" to this measurement. That gives me the compressed length of the shock.

 

When compressed, don't add 1" to that measurement, or else you'll be using your shocks as bumpstops... if you measure 10" between mounts, get a shock that has a compressed of 9".. that gives you 1" of safety zone...

 

Just my opinion..

 

Another idea.. take your old shocks, measure them, then take the difference between your old mount and your new mount and add that to the measurement of the shocks.. Its not ideal, but it works..

 

HTH

Ryan

[comancheman]

I'm going to have to buy new shocks soon for a 5.5 inch lift but I'm pretty confused. if i measure the way mentioned above wouldnt i really limit my droop because the shock would almost be fully extended when the truck is sitting level?

[Oizarod115]

Next you fully droop that side of suspension and measure the distance between the shock mounts. This gives me the extended length of the shock. Now I know what size shocks to order.

 

that insures you have full droop, you let the axle go all the way out, then measure.

 

so unless your suspension is at full droop while on all 4s, your shocks will be normal

[Regger]

The quick and dirty way....

 

Need to be able to lift one wheel at a time...

 

1.) stuff the wheel at max compression.. measure shock moutn distance, minus 1" or so for safety

2.) drop the wheel as much as possible, measure shock mount distance, add an 1"+ for safety..

 

That way you will have a 1" buffer on compression if you come down hard, and compress your bump stops, you wotn compress your shocks. And vice versa, if you drop a wheel hard, you won't be over extending your shock.

 

 

The lazy way is just to add 5.5" to your current shock length. problem with this, is usualy lift suspension flex better than stock, so they will utilize more shock movement than compraed to stock.

 

HTH

Ryan