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So i have a 1988 jeep comanche pioneer 4.0 aw4 4x4, but the engine doesnt crank. I checked the main bearings they were fine an am wondering what size rod bearings i would need , due to the po installed them an I'm leaning towards thats the issue. I used plastigauge for the main bearings an moly lube.All the main bearings were torqued to 80 ft lbs. . Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks tony.

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this is not the 4.7. This is a 4.0 renix 1988 an it needed new bearings an i installed them they needed standard i used new standard bearings.Oh by the way the stroker runs great ps i work at a jeep dealership as a mechanic. I just checked the thrust bearing again in the wright journal. Thanks.

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It sure sounds like the new bearings are just too small. How did you determine that you needed standard? Although there were no oversized cranks from the factory, only .010 undersized. Is it possible your new bearings aren't standard?

 

The bearing caps didn't get mixed up for position, did they? Or reversed in orientation?

 

Wait -- you said you used Plastigage. What kind of clearance did the Plastigage indicate? It's not the rod bearings, right? With the main bearing caps loosened slightly but the rod caps torqued you can turn it over?

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Well eagle the new bearings arre stamped STD on back sides of bearings.As for the orientation of them #1 at #1 cylinder then 2 through 6.When I'm looking at the engine from underneath passengers side all numbers face me correct me if I'm wrong but thats wright.Correct also if the connecting rod bearings are torqued an the main caps are loose it will spin.Also for torqueing them down start from center #4 cap then 3,5,2,6,1,7, an all torqued to 80 ft lbs. I'm wondering if maybe i should oil up the cylinder walls an try it.

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Yeah, the cylinder walls are dry? I guess you're not doing rings, right? This is just a replacement of the bearings with the engine in the vehicle? I would go after the cylinder walls. Fill up a squirt can with some 20W50 and maybe a bit of STP in it for good measure, spin it with the mains loose so you can soak the walls with the pistons all the way up, then tighten the main bearing caps and try again.

 

As you start to draw the main bearing caps up, before they're really tight-tight, tap each cap with a plastic or brass hammer gently to be sure it's properly seated and square to the block.

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Well eagle its fixed.The problem was the mains that i got were stamped std. but really were twenty over i learned this by using a micrometer. Thanks again guys for all the help.

Makes sense. I was going to suggest that, but I figured it "couldn't possibly happen."

 

So much for THAT theory.

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