Whisslaren Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Hi! I was just talking to a friend and he said he had som axles laying around that I could get cheap. I´ve been trying to find out what axles they would be, but it´s a jungle out there and I can´t seem to find a good answer... They come from a Blazer -88 and and a -87 silverado. No IFS he said. He will get me photos, but of course I´m anxious about it and would like to know what possibilities I have :D Anyone know what axles might have come with these vehicles? Cheers! Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 chevy front axles have the differential on the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisslaren Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Well that sucks :wall: What would be a descent axle to put in the front then? I assume the rear from the silverado would be something useful, so something matching that one would be preferable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 what size tires will you be using? is your truck currently 4wd? the rear likely has the chevy 6 bolt wheel pattern, which limits you to Chevy front axles, which don't work. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisslaren Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Plans are 37" and a magnum 5.2. Been thinking before about swapping in front and rear from a Jeep J20, but I have a bad feeling that that front d44 is passenger side as well, isn´t it? Now, I´m kinda liking the benefits of a 14 bolt and how easy it seems to be to work with... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 the 14 bolt is a good axle. you just need a ford dana 60 up front to match and those can be tough to find and costly when you do find them. :( if you have any super duty Fords in your corner of the globe, the Dana 60/10.5" is a good combo too. Even the earlier super duty Dana 50/10.25 will work. you just have to get rims that match the funky metric 8 bolt pattern. nothing along those lines is cheap unfortunately. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisslaren Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Could a front ram dana 60 work as well? Seems to be easier to find than any ford fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisslaren Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 Would a 14bsf still be an alternative if the axle my buddy has turns out not to be a 14bff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 the 14 bolt is a good axle. you just need a ford dana 60 up front to match and those can be tough to find and costly when you do find them. :( if you have any super duty Fords in your corner of the globe, the Dana 60/10.5" is a good combo too. Even the earlier super duty Dana 50/10.25 will work. you just have to get rims that match the funky metric 8 bolt pattern. nothing along those lines is cheap unfortunately. :( And they disappear fast too. I had a line on a matching D60/10.25" limited slip for $600, but it had sold before I could get back to him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Would a 14bsf still be an alternative if the axle my buddy has turns out not to be a 14bff? certainly. I doubt 37" tires are enough to find the relative strength difference between the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisslaren Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 I got a tip for another alternative as well. Toyota landcruiser vx 80 axles. Are these anything worth while? They are really cheap and includes rear discbrakes as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Just to correct a few from the research I've done. The 10.25" is the older version with the 8x6.5 lug pattern and 10.50 is the newer version with the metric bolt pattern. They stopped making the 10.25 when Ford went to the metric bolt pattern. My dads truck, for instance, is a 2001 F250 Super Duty and has the D50/10.50. The J20 axles are drivers side drop (atleast the 80's ones are), my buddy just sold his 44/60 out of his '85 J20 and it was drivers side drop. The corporate 14 bolt full floater is a great option, as well as the Sterlings (10.25 and 10.50). The 14 bolt as the advantage of the 3rd pinion bearing while the Sterlings have the advantage of a cast in truss on the pumpkin. I chose to go Dana 60HP kingpin and Sterling 10.25 out of an '89 F350. As said earlier, with 37's, a semi-float would work as well but I'd do the full float just in case you decide to go larger in tires size. Not only that but the axle shafts are stronger and there is less of a load put on them. For your axle size, 37's are like the smallest you want to go on one ton axles. Even with them and smaller, you will be dragging the differential everywhere. I don't really know too much about the Landcruiser axles but look into the price of parts and brackets for them as it could get pricey very fast. Usually domestic axles (Ford and Chevy in this case since you don't want to run Dodge's) are a lot cheaper and the axle tube diameters are more standardized based on the brackets you can buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 With 37" tires I would either shave the 14 bolt for added ground clearance, or go with the sterling 10.25 which supposedly has about the same clearance as a shaved 14 bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 With 37" tires I would either shave the 14 bolt for added ground clearance, or go with the sterling 10.25 which supposedly has about the same clearance as a shaved 14 bolt. That's one point I forgot. If you shave the lower truss flat with the pumpkin then you'll gain about another 1/2" and still have the full pumpkin intact. Another advantage of the Sterling is that it's cheap. A 10.25 in good condition could be had for $200 around here (I've seen many for less). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Just to correct a few from the research I've done. The 10.25" is the older version with the 8x6.5 lug pattern and 10.50 is the newer version with the metric bolt pattern. They stopped making the 10.25 when Ford went to the metric bolt pattern. My dads truck, for instance, is a 2001 F250 Super Duty and has the D50/10.50. good to know. I had been told different. thanks! :thumbsup: any difference in the 10.5 between early suerduties and later superduties? do Excursions have the same 10.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Would a 14bsf still be an alternative if the axle my buddy has turns out not to be a 14bff? certainly. I doubt 37" tires are enough to find the relative strength difference between the two. :rotf: On the semifloat, I was spinning around with my son in his Jtruck in the snow and we went over a small curb sideways. There was a small clunk and the truck stopped moving. I thought he blew the spider gears. When the inside of the tire hit the curb it pulled just hard enough that it sheared the C clip holding piece off (just like the Dana 35s do) No more C clip diffs for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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