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Every couple days my brake lights go out and i pull the fuse and one side the plastic is slightly melted. The fuse itself appears good but the lights don't work until u replace the fuse. I had to cut the brakelight pigtail off and redo it because it was burnt too. Where should i start?

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Take a mirror and look behind the fuse box. I've seen a few in the junkyards that on the front of the box looks good but behind it there was evidence of fluid. Check the plug directly under the master too for signs.

 

Also possible the switch could be the cause.

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So the switch didnt help. Ima actually pull the tailights out and look/ clean them over and refresh the ground. On the clutch leakage note. Can you actually buy the replacement hardline from the resiovor to the slave cylinder?

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I just picked up the line on Amazon for 18 bucks, most places wanted 60

 

See if your mats look like this

Mc was empty, filled it up and pressed clutch and soaked my sock in dot3

 

Only headlights and buzzer work on mine, panel is so bad best fuse I pulled was only in three pieces

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  • 3 months later...

So I've just been dealing with the stupid thing for awhile now until last night. Lost hazards and brake lights and couldn't get them to come back. So this morning I was gonna tackle the fuse box only to find out that was more involved than I thought. So I reached my hand behind it to see if I could temp fix till this weekend when I could get to it. Found a nut sitting on the wires for the fuse took that outand everything :hmm: works :dunno: :hmm:

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well that would be a source of the problems lol bet it came from the master. those two nuts have a habit of dropping behind there

 

Since the PO just did clutch work, make sure that master has two nuts on it. if not, your gonna have more problems.

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So I've just been dealing with the stupid thing for awhile now until last night. Lost hazards and brake lights and couldn't get them to come back. So this morning I was gonna tackle the fuse box only to find out that was more involved than I thought. So I reached my hand behind it to see if I could temp fix till this weekend when I could get to it. Found a nut sitting on the wires for the fuse took that outand everything :hmm: works :dunno: :hmm:

 

Sweet. Gotta love simple.

 

As far as the fluid on the box...I caught mine early. I found a "smear" of fluid on the upper right corner of the fuse box under the dash. As a result the gauges fuse socket was kind of disfigured and lightly corroded and half of it broke off when I fiddled with it. I now have the proper fuse reinforced with two beads of solder on the fuse to make it fatter so it makes contact in the socket.

 

Sealing up such a leak prone system is a huge PITA, if possible at all. There must be a better M/C set-up that isn't so weak. Anybody? Upgrades??

 

Maybe AutoZone has the answer!! :D

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We'll see. I'm going to go back to the correct size fuse and see what happens. as far as the masters nuts they put one bolt facing cabin (nut is present), and one facing the engine bay. Havent looked to see if that one belongs there

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Wow, sounds like the PO or somebody likes to do half assed work. I found random half assed things on mine too when I got it about a year ago. Its sorta like xmas, never know what ya might find lol

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Wow, sounds like the PO or somebody likes to do half assed work. I found random half assed things on mine too when I got it about a year ago. Its sorta like xmas, never know what ya might find lol

:wrench: If it wasn't for "CC" most of us would probably be one of those 1/2 arse PO's :cheers:

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If youve worked on cars for any length of time you'll notice, pretty much every clutch master cyl leaks back into the cab down the pedal rod. Its a common deal.

I cleaned my fuse box real well with electrical cleaner. I douched it till it was dry all over. (entire can)

Then i put a nice rag above the fuse box in a wad. As the master drips it will now absorb into the rag. i check the rag every so often and see how much I'm losing.

Very little at all.

So ill just re rag every 6 months or so and be good to go. :)

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So the switch didnt help. Ima actually pull the tailights out and look/ clean them over and refresh the ground. On the clutch leakage note. Can you actually buy the replacement hardline from the resiovor to the slave cylinder?

You can buy it, but the line is not what leaks onto the fuse panel. What leaks is the master cylinder itself. The seal at the back end fails, fluid starts "weeping" past it, and follows the pushrod through the firewall where it drips down onto the fuse panel connectors.

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If youve worked on cars for any length of time you'll notice, pretty much every clutch master cyl leaks back into the cab down the pedal rod. Its a common deal.

I cleaned my fuse box real well with electrical cleaner. I douched it till it was dry all over. (entire can)

Then i put a nice rag above the fuse box in a wad. As the master drips it will now absorb into the rag. i check the rag every so often and see how much I'm losing.

Very little at all.

So ill just re rag every 6 months or so and be good to go. :)

 

Can ya re rag a wife and get the same good results? Just curious.......

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  • 3 weeks later...

As an update.. Problem still persists. Got mad and bought a new fuse block with wiring harness from pain less off cl to replace mine..... When I got it home I noticed it looks identical to the factory Jeep one........ Once i get the new fuse pins in I'll wire it up and see if it bolts in factory spot. for anyone curious I looked in my painless catalogue and the part number for just the block (its prewired but that section can be unbolted off the block) is 30003. Part number 20112 appears to have a similar bulkhead connector as well :dunno:

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