ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 First time building a stroker, second time building an engine. (jeepstroker.com isnt working :fs1:) stock 258 crank 12cw stock 258 connecting rods stock 4.0 pistons stock 4.0 pushrods block will be .030 over (maybe .060) 88 4.0 block (receiver) 79 4.2 block (donor) Can you tell by this setup what cam i will need? Don't care Don't care if i have to use high octane usage. heavy offroad use, trails, lots of mud, very little crawling. think offroad rally/mud drag (South Florida location), From what I have read even if you setup your motor for mostly top end you will still have a pretty nasty bottom end. sound right? would like to keep it at or under $2,000 thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 First time building a stroker, second time building an engine. (jeepstroker.com isnt working :fs1:) stock 258 crank 12cw stock 258 connecting rods stock 4.0 pistons stock 4.0 pushrods block will be .030 over (maybe .060) 88 4.0 block (receiver) 79 4.2 block (donor) thanks for the help. if you bore the block, you will not be using stock pistons. you will use pistons that match the bore. the 12 weight 4.2 cranks are older, so the snout that the harmonic balancer mounts on will have to be machined down to match the 4.0 crank. It also has more rotational force than a 4 main setup. thus, it takes alot longer to wind up to high rpm's than a 4 main. that said, once it's moving it moves very well. I've got a 4 main 89 4.2 crank in mine, with rods matching. .030 hesco pistons and rings. I went with a competition cam # 68-115-4 for low end torque and gas mileage. I'm also running a 99+ intake, borla header, 62mm TB, and neon srt4 injectors. total build cost was under $1000 for me, but I have a few connections to get machine work and such done for free...and I was starting with a block that was already mint low miles bored. It's a very peppy, snappy motor, I've beat subaru WRX's with it, and get 18mpg at worst when I'm absolutely hammering on it. 17mpg was my worst when it was in my other truck with 35" tires on 4.10 gears. for your engine, from what it sounds like you want out of it, I would suggest the competition cams 68-201-4 for a nice medium power band. you will still be able to run pump gas, and should see minimal predetonation. you will need to modify your map sensor. go to strokers.com to check it out, or speak directly to hornbrod as he knows infinitely more than I about strokers. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... e=A6CAMSHE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 thanks for the info, but when it comes to pistons why can't i just get oversized 4.0 pistons? and what do you mean by "rods"? push or connecting? I see this alot on other forums and get quite confused on which ones they are talking about. and i still don't understand whether i can run the setup i mentioned, I know the crank will work and that i have to get oversized pistons, but what about using the 4.0 pushrods in junction with the 4.2 connecting rods?? thanks, everything else was quite helpful Oh, and what about a fuel pressure regualtor or a air/fuel ratio gauge? thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 go to strokers.com to check it out, or speak directly to hornbrod as he knows infinitely more than I about strokers. Thanks Pat, but this isn't quite true. :D I simply requested a stroker short block crate engine built to my specs from Hesco, and after much in-person bargaining since they are right down the road brought it home. About five years ago now - how time flies. Installed it and added mods and peripherals over time like I wanted, and managed to increase HP and torque by over 50% from the original dyno specs. It's still a strong engine after many many miles and always getting better. :D Pat is right. To the OP, the strokers site (http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php) has not been down in recent history. Suggest you establish an account there, then read, read, read, so you can converse more knowledgeably, then run your proposed recipe to the gurus there. They are a good helpful bunch of guys and most importantly very stroker sharp, all learned by trial and error. And questions like "Oh, and what about a fuel pressure regualtor (sic) or a air/fuel ratio gauge?" ain't going to get er done mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 i am already a member of jeepstroker.com, but i am having some issues with posting. each time i long in there are several lines of raw code at the top of the page saying something to do with an error. I can navigate the website just fine, but if I try to post something when I hit submit it goes to an error page. And I don't understand what you ment in your last comment about my fuel pressure reg question? could you clarify? thanks for the insight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 shortbed Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 To clarify yes you use 4.0 pistions that are made oversize. The amount depends on how much the block is bored out at the machine shop. That is what the first reply said I just worded it different. Secondly your push rods have nothing to do with you connecting rods. Push rods go from the lifter to the rocker arm and the connecting rod goes from crank to pistion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 gotcha :thumbsup: sooo. . . the setup i said at the beginning of this thread will work, so long as i acquire the proper oversized pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Unless you're dead set on going all out, I would only overbore to .030. This will allow you another punch out should a disaster occur. And I don't understand what you ment in your last comment about my fuel pressure reg question?could you clarify? I consider an A/F meter mandatory to monitor the mixture and a FP regulator as the best means to adjust it. Without these you're just shooting in the dark. You might luck out and nail it correctly the first time, but the odds are it'll run like a pig or worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Unless you're dead set on going all out, I would only overbore to .030. This will allow you another punch out should a disaster occur. And I don't understand what you ment in your last comment about my fuel pressure reg question?could you clarify? I consider an A/F meter mandatory to monitor the mixture and a FP regulator as the best means to adjust it. Without these you're just shooting in the dark. You might luck out and nail it correctly the first time, but the odds are it'll run like a pig or worse. I'm running an 01 fuel rail on my 99 (the vehicle that my stroker is in), with the stock 01 regulator. have not had any issues thus far. on original 260xxx mile fuel pump as well... Do you think I should do something about it? or just leave it be? sorry for the hijack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Well, you probably are running fine and your mileage and periodic plug color checks will tell you so. But any engine, be it a stroker or stock N/A can always be made better and you'll never know for sure until you can monitor the A/F mixture under varying load conditions and/or equipment modifications. I look at it as much as I do the temp and oil pressure gauges. For instance the 99+ intake richened up the mixture a bit and I leaned it out by adjusting the fuel pressure until the Stoich indication was back where it should be. Helped the MPGs out too. It's also nice to see the loop change when starting up cold and warming up showing all the sensors involved are functioning as they should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 :fs1: :fs1: Unless you're dead set on going all out, I would only overbore to .030. This will allow you another punch out should a disaster occur. And I don't understand what you ment in your last comment about my fuel pressure reg question?could you clarify? I consider an A/F meter mandatory to monitor the mixture and a FP regulator as the best means to adjust it. Without these you're just shooting in the dark. You might luck out and nail it correctly the first time, but the odds are it'll run like a pig or worse. I'm running an 01 fuel rail on my 99 (the vehicle that my stroker is in), with the stock 01 regulator. have not had any issues thus far. on original 260xxx mile fuel pump as well... Do you think I should do something about it? or just leave it be? sorry for the hijack. :fs1: Nah, just kiddin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 after much debate with the JeepStroker guys i believe these are my two choices (more expensive, more durable) 4.2 crank 4.0 push and connect rods kb944 .030 pistons (500 bucks) or (less expensive, less durable) 4.2 crank 4.0 push rods and pistons .030 (180 bucks) 4.2 connecting rods thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 You need to remove push rods from the equation. You are going to be using them period. 4.2 are not an option. When someone talks about rods in conjunction to crank shaft, they are speaking of connecting rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 And get the crank shaft balanced to whatever crank and pistons you use. Biggest mistake with budget stroker builds. Makes for a powerful motor that doesn't last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 You need to remove push rods from the equation. You are going to be using them period. 4.2 are not an option. When someone talks about rods in conjunction to crank shaft, they are speaking of connecting rods. hmmm, so your saying no matter what piston/connecting rod combo i go with i will have to use the 4.2 push rods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 after much debate with the JeepStroker.... After reading your thread on the strokers forum it was not debate, it was conflicting advice. Normal. thoughts?My thought at this point in your research is to buy a built crate engine. But keep digging - you're getting there. Get smarter and weigh all the options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Jesus effing christ. You will under no circumstances be using 4.2 push rods. You don't need to even think about them. You will be using 4.0 push rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Jesus effing christ. :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 ok, how bout this 4.0 push rods (30 bucks from oriellys) 4.2 connecting rods (on hand, 707 casting YAAA!) Kb944 .030 pistons and rings ($500 from summit) 4.2 12cw crank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 thoughts?...My thought at this point in your research is to buy a built crate engine... This. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 realistically a built longblock stroker is the way to go. the phrase "poor man's stroker" is a load of BS. sure, you could build one for cheap...but the machine work to do it properly, and time spent figuring it out, running things to the machine shop, and back, and the time setting the motor up, plus the lack of warranty, make it really infeasible. and like i said before...if you don't balance the crank out for the weight of the rods and pistons attached to it, you will likely have a short lived motor. drop some coin and just get one. then upgrade the bolt-ons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 No can do, I take the phrase "built not bought" to heart. I was born a hardcore DIYer and if I didnt do what I do you boys would be out of a job :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smuth Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/stroker40/index.asp Simple and straightforward writeup. Basically what I'm going to do. KB pistons would be nice, and we'll see if money allows, but it doesn't look like it for now. and X2 on balancing and finding a shop near you who has experience with stroking a 4.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Been there, read that. But thanks for the post anyway and ya KB pistons would be really Really nice, but 500 bucks is a lot to shell out on one part. Here is a link to the ones that i think i might be going with. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-677CP30/ But, as I learned today, it is highly recommended to let your shop buy the parts, because A) they get a HUGE discount and B) They actually know what the hell they are doing and will know exactly what will work best for your/my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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