raviolli Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 so ive got some parts lined up for my swap. the guy says i can have everything i need out of his comanche to do it. the motor on his is seized, so thats no good, ill just have to find a 4.0 somewhere out there. where, oh where am i going to find one of those straight sixes?? :roll: lol anyways, I'm getting a 5spd tranny and 231 transfer case with my first trip. he says if i tell him what else i need, he'll pull the parts for the next time I'm there. i need: -the D44 rear with lsd (yes, i said D44 :yes: ) -the D30 front -all shift linkage -driveshafts (even though theyll have to be lengthened, since ill be at 5" of lift once i swap axles) -anyone know how much theyll have to be lengthened by? its going to remain spring under with a new 3" pack and shackles for the rear and my current 3" lift coils for the front and coil spacers up front. -crossmember (which ones do i need? just the one under the tranny?) is there anything else i will need from it? i know if i get a newer 4.0, therell be more computer related things. ill cross that bridge when i get to it. btw, we both have an '88. i could buy the whole thing from him but i really don't have anywhere to put it :shake: as far as lift parts go, i know i will need to extend brake lines, get longer shocks, and a new track bar. what can i do for the swaybar? i have drop brackets now that came with the 3" kit but like i said I'm adding another 2" now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 don't let them forget the little t-case shift linkage bracket that bolts to the underside of the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raviolli Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 ahh yes! thanks Pete! :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 It will be cheaper to have your 2wd rear shaft shortened instead of having the 4wd one lengthened. On my truck with 6.25" front lift there was enough slack in the slip joint on the front driveshaft to work fine without needing lengthened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raviolli Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 sooo i should cut down my 2wd shaft, then try the front shaft as is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raviolli Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 okay, just makin sure i understood correctly. actually, i went to pick up the trans and t/c today and the guys son was saying the same thing. hes got an XJ on 33s. not sure of the lift, but he actually has the front shaft in his that I'm going to take for mine. well ive been writing down my thoughts on the lift components (so i can get the axle swap done first) and noticed that hell creek advertises 3" leaf packs for the same price as 4.5" packs. my original thoughts were to get 3" packs and some drop shackles to make it 5", but if i just go with the 4.5" springs, ill save a small amount of money, and i won't have to see the ugly shackles sticking out from under the bed. plus since ive got 3" coils up front and am going to shove some pucks in there, whether theyre true 2" or actually 1 3/4", (theoretically) it should sit a lil more level with the 4.5" springs, right? I want your 2 cents here. also, I'm thinking about skyjacker hydro7000s to go along with this. does this sound about right or am i that sleep deprived right now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 there's variation in any number associated with springs and lifts. only way to know for sure is to try. but yes, those should match pretty well. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raviolli Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 sweet :cheers: we're on a roll...i should ask all my questions right now, here in this thread hmmmm... :hmm: got one i know the rotors are different between 2wd and 4wd, but how about the calipers? i was doing a complete brake overhaul when i found the parts for my swap, so i ended up returning the rotors, but the calipers i got from rockauto and id rather not have to return them. also, is the mast. cyl. and booster the same for 2.5 and 4.0? i already but the new goodies in (old booster leaked BADDD and rockauto had em both as a unit for a hundy) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 sweet :cheers: we're on a roll...i should ask all my questions right now, here in this thread hmmmm... :hmm: got one i know the rotors are different between 2wd and 4wd, but how about the calipers? i was doing a complete brake overhaul when i found the parts for my swap, so i ended up returning the rotors, but the calipers i got from rockauto and id rather not have to return them. also, is the mast. cyl. and booster the same for 2.5 and 4.0? i already but the new goodies in (old booster leaked BADDD and rockauto had em both as a unit for a hundy) Early XJs and MJs used tapered bearings for 2wd and unit bearings for 4wd, This may or may not have an effect on the brake rotors and/or calipers. At some point (year?) 2wd models started using the same unit bearings and rotors as 4wd models, with a dummy shaft to hold the unit bearing together. From that point on 2wd and 4wd use the same rotors and calipers. Also at some point (when the calipers got bolted directly to the knuckle without a separate bracket?) the thickness of the rotor flange changed from 1/4" to less than 1/8".The difference is made up by the unit bearing which changed at the same time. And I believe the thinner (newer) rotors were made from different materials again based on year, presumably along with the brake pads, although the calipers and unit bearings stayed the same for that change. The only 2wd I have personal experience with is a 96XJ, which used the 4wd style unit bearings with a dummy shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raviolli Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 my 2wd axle had tapered inner and outer bearings in the rotors. it also had that seperate bracket you mentioned for the caliper. however, the rotors are not important. theyve been returned already. the dana 30 might already have decent rotors. who knows :dunno: ill find out when i pick up my axles (forgot to look when i was getting the tranny and tc) if the rotors are good, or even if theyre not...if theyre not ill just buy some 4x4 front rotors obviously...will it be very obvious if the calipers i bought online arent going to work? or could there be something so suttle that id miss that would make them incompatible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 It will be obvious if the calipers don't fit. Older calipers (that use the bracket) use pins with a (7 mm?) allen head. I believe the thread on those pins is 6mm. The newer ones that don't have the separate bracket use metric flange bolts (usually with a 10mm hex head) with a smaller (5mm?) thread. The new holes are too small for the old pins, the old holes are too large for the new pins. What year is the donor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raviolli Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 both trucks are an '88 pioneer SWB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Shame you're in Fl. I'd sell you my spare 4.0. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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