64chevy Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 We cleaned the EGR valve and it appears to be working but we stall out during deceleration. Do I spend $100 on a part that appears to be working? Any suggestions? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJRemi Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Here's a useful link to some of the equipment involved on the Renix motors. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Your issue could be a few different things so test and research a bit more before buying a new EGR valve and if you do buy one, it shouldn't be anywhere near $100. More like 1/2 that. Rockauto has the Delphi on closeout for $25 + SH. (you'll need a gasket also) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 At idle reach into the EGR valve and pull the diaphragm toward you with your fingertips. If it stalls right out, the EGR is sealing okay. If you notice little to no difference, the EGR is probably not seating properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Are there emission restrictions in TX that force you to have a working EGR? I fiddled and futzed with mine for quite a while and it seemed the only solution was to buy a new one (which are pricey). I wound up capping off the vacuum line going to it and the truck ran great and still passed NJ emissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleag89 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Cap the egr valve off disabling it and see if it still dies. Disconnect the vacuum line going to it and cap everything off. DO NOT buy another egr valve thats a HUGE waste of money! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 TESTING THE EGR VALVE FOR 87-90 4.0 ENGINE Valve Opening Test 1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, rapidly open and close throttle. Open throttle sufficiently to obtain at least 1500 RPM. Movement should be noticed in EGR diaphragm. 2) If diaphragm does not move, probable causes are: faulty vacuum signal to EGR, defective EGR diaphragm or defective backpressure sensor diaphragm (if equipped), or leaks in vacuum lines or connections. Valve Closing Test 1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, manually depress EGR valve diaphragm. RPM should immediately drop, indicating that EGR valve is not leaking and had been properly cutting off exhaust gas flow at idle. 2) If there is no change in RPM and engine is idling properly, exhaust gases are not reaching combustion chamber. Check for plugged passage between EGR valve and intake manifold. 3) If engine idles poorly and RPM is not greatly affected by manually moving diaphragm up, EGR valve is not closing off exhaust gas flow. Check for carbon between pintle, leaking EGR valve gasket or bad EGR valve. *************** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64chevy Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 It was a bad EGR valve. Thank you for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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