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Anyone have a doubler in thier MJ


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I am considering a BOX4ROCKS doubler in my winter rebuild.....anyone useing a MadRooster doubler , or a similar setup. My driveline is going to be a Dodge Magnum 360 with a 727 / NP231 that I was going to double up with a flipped Dana 300.......but I have an NP203 range box and a Ford NP205 that I have considered doubleing useing an ORD kit. It is going to be very heavy , so I am leaning towards the 231/300 setup.

If anyone has some pic's of thier winch mounting that would be cool too.......I am going to be running the rad in the bed , so I am going to mount the winch recessed into the grill opening. Is anyone doing something similar ?????

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My winch is under the rad.

 

 

 

I think the box4rocks is the bang for the buck NP231 to whatever doubler. The madrooster one is expensive and not as good. Or it is the other way around?

 

 

Either way it's not a bad idea. You can put the 241 planetaries in the first case if you have strength issues. I'd not run a 231 as the second tcase. But a 241 might survive. Or a D300 would be better.

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Definetely won't be useing a 231 for the second case......even with a 231 C HD with the wider chain and the 6 pinion planetary , I think it's just an explosion waiting to happen LOL.

Thats why I was plannin on a 300 flipped......maybe even run a 4:1 JB conversions kit in the 300 , that way I could have 3 low range options and twin stick the 300 too.

The 203/205 is too heavy and too large for the MJ.....maybe another project.

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LOL....mine is on a weight loss program too. Bought an MB105 tube bender so the rear frame/bed/tranny cross member/rocker panels etc are all going jamminz.gif

This winter is V8 swap/doubler/exo/tube bed/tube dash and autometers/finish my trail doors.......next year is D60's and some 42" IROK's

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Ya , I guess that box could be bought.......but it aint pretty......its bent , scratched , dented , bondo filled , cut up and generally screwed.

 

If ya want it , I'll throw in 2 real good tail gates LOL......you come get it and its yours for free.

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I don't know if this is an option but something to kick around...

 

If you add up the cost of the rooster kit, the 300, the clocking ring and parts needed to flip, etc. etc. how much is that?

 

Take that money then sell the 203,205,231, old engine, tranny and whatever other spare parts you can muster up...

 

Then take all the money from the sales + the money you were going to spend ($1800? $2000? total) and just fork out the extra $500 and buy a 3 speed Stak and never look back.

 

Don't know if it's feasible or not but something to at least consider.

 

my 2 cents.

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I am getting ready to install one on my rig. I am going to be using a NP203 to d300. Here is the site I will be getting it from http://www.offroadoverstock.com/store.c ... =46&afid=&

 

 

I do agree with you that the np203 to np205 would weigh way too much, for what would amount to a 4 to 1 kit just with other choices. With the d300 I will have a 1.96 to 1, a 2.62 to 1 and then a 5.13 to 1, and always would have the option of installing a 4to 1 in the d300 for an insane 7.84 to 1, just a lil food for though, I hope I did my math right too :smart:

 

As for which is better.. from what I have read... the Mad roosters kit is more money, more work, and pretty much the same thing... do a search on pirate, and decide for yourself after talking to some ppl

 

 

As for buying a Stak or a 3spd atlas.... they are nice, but expensive. Right now I have 36 bucks tied up in my setup, I still have to buy the doubler kit, but ppl throw away np203's, thats how I got mine, and d300 can be had for free ( how much mine was) or for as lil as a couple hundred bucks, throw in the cash for the 32 spline outputs, and you are at the same strength as anAtlas, just for less money. By the way.. there was a flipped 300 for sale on Pirate, from a local club member for like 650, the only thing you would have to do is install it... much cheaper then 2500 :brows:

 

 

Also your build plan rocks... mine is going along the same lines as yours, but I am doing the GM axles D60 and 14 ff, with a vortec 4.3 turbo 350, np203 d300. On 42 IROKS on H1's.. I all ready had the truggy thing going ;)

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Just like you.....I already have the 203/205 and the 231/300. So for $400 plus shipping , I can double up the cases. $3000 for a Stak or Atlas is way too much coin for very little advantage.

Like ya said.....if it isnt enough reduction I'll put a 4:1 kit in the 300. Twin stick the 300 too. Plus I need to lengthen my front driveshaft so the extra length from doubleing the cases is a bonus.

 

I have a ton of 4x4 stuff kickin around.....all bought for next to nothing , or free. I swap and trade parts all the time......Just traded a set of D44 4.10's for a bottom sump 15 gal fuel cell. Autometer Pro Comp gauges were aquired from trading a set of Rancho 5000's. I am always lookin for stuff LOL.

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Another consideration for the doubler compared to a Stak or Atlas was that when I do my axel swap next season , I am unsure of weather I will use a LP Chev D60 or a HP Ford D60.......Right now I have a drivers drop HP D44 so I can flip the Dana 300 now.......and if I use a Chev D60 then I can unflip it.

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With either setup expect driveshaft clearance issue, or starter clearance issues. A couple of the guys in the club running 350/350 D300 combos had to have special driveshafts made to clear the trans pan, and even then they had to do some ginding.

 

 

The HP 60 is a great idea, but I have heard ppl have probs with exhaust clearance with uptravel

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Another consideration for the doubler compared to a Stak or Atlas was that when I do my axel swap next season , I am unsure of weather I will use a LP Chev D60 or a HP Ford D60.......Right now I have a drivers drop HP D44 so I can flip the Dana 300 now.......and if I use a Chev D60 then I can unflip it.

 

 

Do both. Use the ford centre section and inner shafts and the chevy outer knuckles and outer shafts.

 

I believe the newer ford HP60s (before they became unitized hubs, but still had kingpins) have the pumpkin offset far enough that you shouldn't have any real driveshaft clearances.

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I just sold a Ford HP D60 to a friend that was closer to needing it than I was. It was a 1988 version with king pins.....pumpkin is offset to the drivers side more than the 78/79 version.

I think 88 to 92's still had king pins , 93 and up have ball joints.

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