Akula69 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I have a 95' dakota 22gal tank & plan to order a 98' Dakota sender/pump unit for my 88-98 swap. I'm thinking it would be easiest to drill the new sender unit and add a fuel filer vent. Has anyone done this and are there pictures to show how/where. Might be nice before drilling a new sender unit. If I go this way, and suggestions on fittings? Gas safe (proof) RTV? Or am I better to drill the tank? Just not sure what I'd use for fittings on the tank. Akula69- I'd be interested in seeing pictures of the mods you made to the tank and sender!!! We did drill the tank (using a Forster bit) to insert the rollover vent, but we used the regular fuel filler neck and hole already on the tank. Generally, I try not to duplicate pictures on the forums as they take up the most space. I would like to direct you to my son's thread on the rebuild - the pictures are there. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38725-89-resto-to-99-conversion/ Additionally, we had a small set-back with the tank - it developed a small leak where we had 'modified' it. Last night we re-sealed it with a plastic welding tool from Harbor Freight. It worked great, even if the process is a bit slow. The critical thing to remember with a plastic welder is to use the welding material that is identical to the original (i.e. - HPDE strips must be used to seal HDPE). The tool we purchased was not expensive but you will need an old tank to get slivers of HDPE to weld with. http://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-adjustable-temperature-96464.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Thanks- I ordered a 98' Dakota sender/pump unit for my 95' tank. I think I'll go fitting shopping at the hardware store to make a vent line angle fitting. Otherwise, I may have to hunt the boneyard for vents like the one below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Well, it appears that the tank is sealed and we strapped it up tight. No problems (except for 61.00 per fill up)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Akula69: Nice! How do those HF plastic welders work? Are they run on propane or something? The description & picture did not explain that? Do you melt the new plastic onto the old like waxing skis or join them like soldering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Akula69: Nice! How do those HF plastic welders work? Are they run on propane or something? The description & picture did not explain that? Do you melt the new plastic onto the old like waxing skis or join them like soldering? Well, there are several models, but the one we purchased has an electrical cord for 120V and an air attachment (from a compressor). PSI is limited to 15, and you start the air flow, then plug it in. A heating element inside the body heats the air flow (controlled by a rheostat) up to 600 degrees. the heated air leaves the end of the tool through the hollow tip. It is a mix between soldering and melting. When up to temperature, you direct the air flow on the plastic where you want to weld, and after it is sufficiently heated you introduce a plastic welding rod (we used a sliver of the old XJ HDPE tank) and allow it to 'melt' into the tank. You then can 'spread' the semi-solid plastic with the side of the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 Got it, so a little like a mix of gas welding and soldering then. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Update on my gas tank project, using a 95' Dakota tank & a 98' Dakota sender. The sender has a completly different plug :doh: so that's a new issue... may be off to the boneyard afterall. I also went fitting shopping last night and got a brass 3/4 threaded to 1/2 inch hose adapter that should work. Here's the tank, fittings, and where I decided to put the breather vent hole. I'm happy with how this vent fitting turned out. I had to grind down the outside nut to not take up so much thread. I was suprised at how thick the plastic tank is. I heated the fitting and tried to screw it into the tank. Good idea but too much heat and I wiggled the fitting going in so the threads didn't turn out great. Back to plan A, use a nut on either side of the fitting... Next I had to figure out the vent line for the Emmisions box. I used a factory (roll-over style) vent from the 88 MJ metal tank. It's a odd fit because the plastic tank it three times thicker, but seems to fit. I'm just a little concerned about it poping out, as there's no good way to lock it in. Unless I somehow glue or strap it in. It fits tight now, but who knows.....any good idea's? Here's how it looks: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Gas tank update: I ended up putting a hose clamp on the inside if the tank on the rollover valve to assure it can't pop out. I Installed the 98' Dakota sender in the 95' tank and got a 97' plug from the boneyard. The stock vent tube should work, but I ordered a new filler hose which proved hard to find. I ordered a "1-5/8" inch (SOFT WALL) Rubber Fuel Filler Neck Hose (SOLD PER INCH)" made by Thermoid / HBD from Filler Hose Supply Co. This is a marine & automotive quality hose. 1-5/8 looks like it will stretch a little to fit the 95 Dakota filler neck and crush a bit to fit the smaller MJ filler neck. I straightened the XJ gas tank straps and hung them from the frame. I used two sissor jacks to hold the gas tank in place, too figure out the location and gas tank straps. I ended up using dense foam insulation board to space the tank down from the bed. Then happy where the tank was, I bent the first bend in the tank strap. Its hard to get a 90 degree ish bend so I then moved the jacks under the straps and pushed it up tight to the tank & made the next bend up toward the bed. This worked quite well, I then was able to use the MJ factory bolts/rod to bolt up the straps... Thats it! I did one strap at a time. I didn't have to bust out the welder & fabricate anything! The blue arrow points to the section I may still try to heat and bend in a bit to gain some more driveshaft room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Here's the tank after I used a heat gun hammer & a spring shackle to push in the side a little. I now have plenty of room for the driveshaft. And mounted ready to go... just need to test the sender wiring as pump & engine runs. Mounted Evap box right in front of gas tank. used XJ straps & MJ bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rullemj Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Sounds like something for the future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dankicksass Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I just brought home a 2000-2004 extended cab Dakota tank and pump assy. 22 gallons. I spent what seemed like forever at the junkyard yesterday looking for one that wasn't punctured, I'll report back soon how it worked out. I'm not going to get upset over losing a gallon, though I would have liked to have found a larger capacity tank that would have fit it seemed like every darn tank had a hole in it regardless of what it fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I'm pretty sure the junkyard punches a hole in every tank as a means to drain it easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason McFarland Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 Anyone have a wiring explanation? I have a 22g Dakota tank and assembly that I'm using in my 2001 swap. What color wires mate to what wires on the xj harness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riverrat92 Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 On 10/18/2011 at 8:34 AM, 99Manche said: when I picked up the new tank I cut the plug off the Dakota that plugs into the fuel pump assembly then when I got home I cut the pigtail off an xj pump assembly and spliced the 2 together Any close up pics of what wires you spliced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now