flint54 Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Want to fully drain old coolant. Cannot remove those drain plugs beneath the manifold. PB Blaster soaked for days. Roasted with mapp gas torch for a very long time. 5/16" square tool steel cranked with as much force as space will permit. Not one budge, not even a tiny one. Even danced on one foot with an ostrich feather in my teeth while waving chicken bones and chanting incantations. Apparently the wrong ones. Does anyone know the correct incantations? Or any other viable techniques I may have overlooked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCARENA Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 A little C4 might help get it out. :smart: Sorry not much help. Did you try tightening it, then loosen it, sometimes it helps break it free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 The blocks are really hot when they screw those plugs in. When it cools down it is for all practical purposes one piece. It's welded in. Try some paraffin. Don't know why but it works better than Blaster or penetrating oil. Get a torch, Oxy-acetylene. A little propane just ain't gonna hack it. Heat the plug and rub paraffin around it. Wait for it to cool. The paraffin melts into the threads. Penetrating oil just burns off. This has worked for me on over half the plugs I've done it to. There were a couple just couldn't get nothing to budge them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 After all that effort, why not just remove the radiator hoses and flush the block with a garden hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 I had one MJ overheating. Nothing helped. Flushed with hose, pressure washer, everything. Finally removed the front freeze plug. That block was so full of rust, crap there wasn't room for any coolant flow. removed the rest of the freeze plugs and between running hose and a working a cable in the jacket was able to clean it up good. Never messed with the screw in plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz777 Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 heat works well to loosen drain plugs with crc freeze -it ... after you get it out use Teflon thread sealer on it ! use conklin safe /dike, both will save your rass!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Just to close the loop, I cooked those little bas$$$ds for an hour, soaked parrafin into the threads, cranked them in both directions, and got absolutely nowhere. I've decided that draining from those points is vastly over-rated. Got the Prestone flush kit that cuts into the heater hose, and flushed the system adequately. Got more stuff out of the heater core (and then not much) than anywhere else. I've installed the Hesco water pump (with the scroll impeller), the CSF 2671 all metal radiator (Hesco sells it but it can be had for a lot less elsewhere), and the newer (from 98 XJ) 10 blade fan. Put the correct (195 deg OEM) T-stat in, and running distilled water with 12oz water wetter. What a difference! I can dump tons of heat now. Still planning to add the second 10 blade fan, after thinking through the electrics for a bit. I'm concerned about the first fan. The 98 XJ donor uses a much heavier gauge (#8 I think) for the fan than our MJ wire, which looks like only #14. I'm thinking about pulling heavier wire through the harness, but not looking forward to that task. (Yes, I know I could just add new wire outside the harness). I don't have an ammeter that range, anyone know what these fans actually draw? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Startup on the 10-blade fans can jump up to 18A. 14A-15A is the norm. They run with a 6A-8A draw. I'm used 12AWG wiring and fuse both my fans at 20A/ea. No problems ever. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thanks Don, I was afraid they could pull nearly 20 amps. With two of those kicking on, plus headlights, and whatever else is running, I could be nearing the limit of my poor old OEM alternator. I think they're good for only, what, 65 amps total? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thanks Don, I was afraid they could pull nearly 20 amps. With two of those kicking on, plus headlights, and whatever else is running, I could be nearing the limit of my poor old OEM alternator. I think they're good for only, what, 65 amps total? Tom I think the biggest alternator available on the HOs was the HD 90A; most were 65A-75A. But since you have a 92, the Dodge/ZJ 136A NipponDenso alt below is a cheap and easy bolt-in swap. I did this swap awhile ago and it bolted right in w. no case grinding. Also upgraded my mains cables. It handles both fans, H4 Hella head lamps, A/C on, and full blower no problems. A good upgrade to do on the HOs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 Good lead - thanks! I read somewhere that this alternator is externally regulated, via the PCM. Hopefully the amperage increase will pose no risk. Kelley's W.I.P. talks about adding an inline fuse - did you do that also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Good lead - thanks! I read somewhere that this alternator is externally regulated, via the PCM. Hopefully the amperage increase will pose no risk. Kelley's W.I.P. talks about addingan inline fuse - did you do that also? Yes, it's regulated by the ECU based on load demand and battery voltage sensing. Same way the 91-92 MJ HO alts are, and the V8 ZJs and Dodges the 134A alts came from. Yes, I did add the inline ANL fuse (150A if I recall) along w. a set of Kelly's mains cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryGuy Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I know this is an old post...... But how about a Mean Green alternator.... should solve any power problem :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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