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My hydro-assist.


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Looks like this....

 

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(It's only tacked up, yes the metal isn't clean, no that's not a 6" ram)

 

 

 

Comments? I have a clearance problem right now, but the angle grinder will fix that and allow me to have full steering travel in both directions...

 

Think that bracket on the pumpkin is going to let me weld it in enough places? It's going to be like 9" of weld... Seeing about 2000lbs in sheer? Somebody tell me it'll be fine or I'm going to add more to it.

 

 

 

Gotta make a new bracket for the drag link too. Turned out the tie-rod side of the ram had to be exactly where the old one was.

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I'll put it on top of the tie-rod, right by where it was. If the bracket I welded on cools quickly enough I'll go back out and do it.

 

 

 

I braced up the bracket on the tie-rod a bunch, and the otherone too. But, I don't have the right bolts/nuts so I can't finish it for a while... Grr.

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Yes. That ram could. But. the steering box, while it is an orbital valve of a sorts, is built so that the pitman arm provides control for the valving in it. If you don't have a drag link, you'll turn the wheel and the pitman arm will go to full lock in that direction and kill all pressure to the ram.

 

 

With an orbital valve ment for full hydro steering it can be done. I'm not in the mood to buy one. They ain't cheap!

 

 

Also, if you go full hydro normally a double ended ram is used so the fluid volume to move it either direction is equal. Or you'll have to turn the wheel 5 times to go left and only 3 to go right...

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Yeah, there's a stock perche still there; I never got around to cutting it off. Maybe I should since the axle is out anyways.

 

 

That's 3/16. I thought it was 1/4 but didn't measure it until I had cut it... I doubt it'll tear the bracket on the tie-rod, but the one on the pumpkin I'm a little more worried about. I couldn't put the bolt through it very far back in the bracket because of the shape of the ram.

 

 

I might weld some plate to the top of the pumpkin bracket it make it thicker. The bottom isn't really a problem as it has a tension nut welded to the pumpkin/bracket.

 

I think I'll be just giving it a shot and carry plugs. If it tears off, well, then it wasn't strong enough.

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My only concern with the way you are welding it to the pumpmkin is that you use proper technique and rods when welding to that cast. If done wrong it will cause stress cracks when heating or cooling. Research the welding characteristics. I believe you need to pre heat and Post heat to ensure proper expansion and contraction.

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other then being ugly IMO i think it will work

 

although 2 things to think about, stock tierods are not very stong, and if you bend it you will need to make another bracket

 

 

If I bend that tie-rod, I'm making a new one. Unless I can just put this one back in the press again... That hot stamped crap that they claim is steel isn't exactly great. And the whole thing is ugly as hell. Same goes for the drag link. But I didn't feel like dumping the money on a bunch of 3/4" rod ends and tubing that I will have to special order if this works.

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other then being ugly IMO i think it will work

 

although 2 things to think about, stock tierods are not very stong, and if you bend it you will need to make another bracket

 

 

If I bend that tie-rod, I'm making a new one. Unless I can just put this one back in the press again... That hot stamped crap that they claim is steel isn't exactly great. And the whole thing is ugly as hell. Same goes for the drag link. But I didn't feel like dumping the money on a bunch of 3/4" rod ends and tubing that I will have to special order if this works.

 

thats cool

you could also think about 1-ton chevy TRE's

ive been running the set I'm using now for about 2 years, 8 months of that was DD'ing also

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