My truck is really sick....

[1tonMJ]

:help:

I have an 88' MJ 2wd 4.0 with the puge-o-crap tranny. It has 206,050 miles on it. I have had it for 6,000.

 

The steering sucks. It's loose, and it seems like the tires are pointing outward. If I got faster than 45mph, the passenger side feels like its bouncing up and down pretty violently. If I slow down, it stops.

The steering column is loose, and I have found that to be the 4 screws that come loose. Also in that area, my turn signals quit working today, the dash lights don't come on anymore (recently quit), the e-brake won't stay engaged/hard to engage. It is hard to put it in 1st gear sometimes, like something is blocking it, or the syncros aren't lining up. If I roll the truck a little, it'll pop in gear. There may be looseness in the steering bars, I have to get the front end in the air and take a look, but nothing moves with the wheels on the ground. Ocassionaly the electrical system trips out, I think that is due to a bad ground wire. If I move the wire and try to start it again, it might click off, or fire right up.

 

I'd like to get a new steering column, as I have to use pliers to start it :D and I have to have something metal to make the horn contact. My ring works nicely :yes: I would be willing to wire up a 3 way switch to start it. Push button start is nice. The wiper motor is also shot.

 

Might as well throw some bastard pack springs to pick it up, if I need new front shocks and springs.

 

If anyone can decipher the above, please help, I don't want my truck to sit. I need it. Money isn't a problem, I will get what I need to.

 

:smart: Also, when your ignition stops turning with the truck running, DO NOT use a pair of channel locks to pull off the distributor wire. It hurts. :doh:

[87Warrior]

With that many miles on your truck, I bet all of the bushings and bearings need replaced up front. I would start repairing by putting new bushings on the trackbar, but if you want to lift it, buy an adjustable TB. Next I would address the steeing, draglink/tierod/tie rod ends. You can upgrade to the heavier duty ZJ tierod at this time if you want. Don't forget an alignment. If you are lifting, work on the steering at the same time as the lift so you only pay to get it aligned once. If it is still not tracking well down the road you may need control arm bushings. Once again, if lifting the truck you may opt for aftermarket arms instead of sticking new bushings in the stock arms. If it still feels loose, replace the ball joints. Inspect the unit bearings (hub) and replace as needed.

 

You should be able to do all of this with basic hand tools and possibly a puller or two borrowed from AutoZone or the like. There are several helpful videos posted on Youtube showing how to remove and install ball joints.

 

There is a write up somewhere here on CC that explains how to tighten up the Renix era steering columns.

[1tonMJ]

With that many miles on your truck, I bet all of the bushings and bearings need replaced up front. I would start repairing by putting new bushings on the trackbar, but if you want to lift it, buy an adjustable TB. Next I would address the steeing, draglink/tierod/tie rod ends. You can upgrade to the heavier duty ZJ tierod at this time if you want. Don't forget an alignment. If you are lifting, work on the steering at the same time as the lift so you only pay to get it aligned once. If it is still not tracking well down the road you may need control arm bushings. Once again, if lifting the truck you may opt for aftermarket arms instead of sticking new bushings in the stock arms. If it still feels loose, replace the ball joints. Inspect the unit bearings (hub) and replace as needed.

 

You should be able to do all of this with basic hand tools and possibly a puller or two borrowed from AutoZone or the like. There are several helpful videos posted on Youtube showing how to remove and install ball joints.

 

There is a write up somewhere here on CC that explains how to tighten up the Renix era steering columns.

 

Ok, replace the bushing and bearings. I got my brakes done 6,000 miles ago, while the mech was in there he checked the bearings, AT THE TIME he said they were OK. Now could definitely be different. It doesn't look like anything was done to this truck beyond basic services.

 

If I get the adjustable TB, could I adjust it to stock height, then ADJUST it when it goes up? Also, for the ZJ swap, do I snag everything off the ZJ at the JY and just swap it on? Or do I need some custom adjustment done to make it fit?

 

The only thing that confuses me if this talk of control arms. On a 2wd Comanche? Aren't we dealing with a straight, non-powered axle? Anyways, I had thought that the wobbling MIGHT be the wheel bearings. I will have those replaced.

 

I saw the write up on the steering column fix, but I have this habit of not being able to get stuff together after I take it apart :yes:, I am not sure if I want to tackle that by myself, or even at all. Why can't I have just a straight pipe? :roll:

[87Warrior]

If you want the ZJ steering, you can pull parts from the yard or buy new. I bought new. All you need is the tie rod, TRE and adjusting sleeve. The drag link is the same.

 

Your 2wd front axle is attached to the truck the same as a 4wd and can suffer from the same issues. I was mistaken in my previous post, you do not have the unit bearing design on the 2wd axle. More than likely your wheel bearings are not the root of your issues.

 

As for an adjustable TB, you should be able to use one on a stock height truck with the 2wd axle. I would ask the manufacture if it can be adjusted to stock length. Typically there is clearance issues with the differential cover on a stock height 4wd, obviously not a concern for you.

[dfreeman616]

:help:

I have an 88' MJ 2wd 4.0 with the puge-o-crap tranny. ...my turn signals quit working today, the dash lights don't come on anymore (recently quit)...Ocassionaly the electrical system trips out, I think that is due to a bad ground wire. If I move the wire and try to start it again, it might click off, or fire right up.

how's your fuse box under the dash? i bet it's soaked with clutch fluid from the master cylinder, and that may take care of some of those things, if the box isn't junk.

[1tonMJ]

Welp, I got a bunch of new fuses, pulled the old ones out and they disintegrated when I did so. I see what is meant when you are told about the clutch fluid leaking. I got a new serpentine belt, a new ground wire (battery to the block), and a new airfilter. I need to find out why there is a half quart of oil in the bottom of my air box, I will not put the new filter in until I know why. The old one is soaked in oil.

[87Warrior]

I need to find out why there is a half quart of oil in the bottom of my air box, I will not put the new filter in until I know why. The old one is soaked in oil.

Blow-by more than likely. A newer HO (I believe that is all required) valve cover should reduce the amount of oil that spews into the filter box. You should find lots of discussion by searching.