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rubicon d44???


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i always wondered why TJs have LPs especaily considering their short wheelbase, doesnt that give them TERRIBLE drive angles?

 

 

Jeep cheaped out and went back to a LP front axle for unknown reasons. Yeah, TJs have driveline angle problems. But, the front is actually better than the rear normally...

 

 

My buddy's YJ now has a front driveshaft length of 48", and a rear length of 18". I think he's going to have to run a bigelow shaft in the rear.

 

checked out tom-woods? they have some CRAZY angle driveshafts. (i don't know what a bigelow is though) and I'm sure you have checked out tomwoods.

 

www.4xshaft.com

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ok so from this last post we see a d30 is not as strong as a real d44 which we all know, but it still remains a mystery as to whether its (d30 hp) is any stronger than the fake rubi d44.

 

basically i was looking at prices at builting my d30 in my xj to make it strong and reliable, and the cost would be considerable for a superior "super 30" kit retail at 1590.00 and a new ring and pinion about 150.00 we are looking at about 1700 in parts + labor (i can't do that myself because i don't have the knowledge yet of what it all entails) so i say around 2000 total

 

4wd hardware has d44 front and rear axles assemble and ready to bolt on to a tj (off road magazine demonstrated that a tj front axles will bolt onto an xj or mj with no mods) a new d44 front with 4.10 gears, alloy usa axle shafts, detroit truetrac, and new balljoints for 2129.00 assembled and ready to ship. or an arb air locker for 2469.00

 

so the price is comparable and only off by about 450 more for the arb locker in the d44, now would that 450 dollars for the d44 provide anymore strength than the built d30, since the "super 30" has the same 30 spline shafts locker etc as the d44

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the rubicon D44 front is a D30 with a bigger ring and pinion basically. it can run 5.38s, wheras a D30 stops at 4.88s and the r&p is much stronger. however its got the same outers and the same thickness tubes.

 

my brother has D30 super-30kit and i THINK that price includes the locker.

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well i never really thought about it too much, i know they are good but don't know if they are what i want yet, but on board air is a plus jamminz.gif

i know your a/c doesnt work, (or it shouldnt by now :brows: )

 

converting the stock sanden a/c compressor to OBA my brother spent about 150$ including:

pressure switch off at 140, on at 90.

tool oiler, oil filter

ebay air-tank 5lbs

all fittings, hoses and such

all sorts of little quick connects and stuff.

 

EDIT: that oba setup runs his ARB and stuff fine, and also will run any tools.

 

fills up a 35 from 10psi to normal in about 1min 30 sec.

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I wouldn't spend all that money on a "super" anything. Just carry spare shafts and go have some fun. I've always had good luck with $150 used Lockrights in D30's too.

 

 

Jared you are welcome to spend you money on any axle or upgrades you want and you don't have to justify it to anybody. Your money, your rig, do what you really want and enjoy it!

 

:cheers:

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i just want to make sure that it would be worth it and getting opinions from people with more expiriance than me helps me make my decisions

 

i came to the conclusion so far that a d30 could pretty much take all the abuse i am going to give it, even with a locker and new gears. and that would be even chaper than buying a whole axle rebuild kit with stronger shafts etc. so i think i am going to regear and add a locker of some sort and just carry extra shafts when i off road.

 

thanks for the help all

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Nicely put 89MJay! I am going with the new Rubi LP/D44 housing, chromolly inner/outer 30 spline shafts, my D30 knuckles, with the Eaton E-locker, and 4:55 gears. The axle housing is already set up to bolt right in, no modifications. It should be a lot stronger, and it will it will match the rear :brows:. I will let you know how it all works out.

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