MJRemi Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 I'd like to install a new pinion seal in the D44 before I swap in the axle. The nut is larger than any socket I have in my limited arsenal so I'll have to buy the proper one. Does anyone know what size nut holds the yoke in place? And when I remove the nut and seal, is that going to mess up the gear positions because I don't want to try and figure out how to align everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Just did this on my new D44. I used a 1-1/8" deep socket I had. The D44 uses shims, so no worries about crush sleeves. Just re-torque back to specs after you replace the seal. Also inspect the yoke shaft for wear where the seal rides, most common cause of leaks. Mine was a bit worn, so I used a new u-bolt style pinion yoke from Randy's R&P. It's advisable to replace the nut too, but that's up to you. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Thanks for posting this! I'm doing my seal in a couple days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJRemi Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Thanks Hornbrod! I picked up that socket at Sears along with a 1/2" socket wrench. Now I get to figure out how to remove the nut. I've been cranking on it but can't seem to break it loose. I soaked it with PB so we'll see if it will cooperate tomorrow. The axle is up on stands so I think setting it on the floor and securing the yoke should help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Don, did you order this kit from R R&P? YP TRKD44-1310U I don't need the ujoint though I suppose a spare wouldn't hurt, but my pinion is leaking like a sieve and I should probably replace the yoke along with it by the sounds of it (do it right, do it once). Should I do the bearing while I'm in there? From what I've read, replacing the seal sounds pretty simple but what's needed to do the bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I used this kit: D44-1310-26U My truck had new u-joints so I didn't need them. I did not replace the pinion bearing either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Super. Looks like I'll be needing: YMS5778 Yukon Mighty Seal YY D44-1310-26U Yukon yoke for Dana 30, 44, 50, and 300 with 26 spline and a 1310 U/Joint size DS 2-94-28 Dana 44, 8.2", 12P, 12T, VET, and Model 20 U-Bolts YSPPN-009 Pinion nut YSPPN-029 Pinion nut washer Fifty bucks here and seventy there every now and then and these D44s sure do get expensive! I've spent more on parts to fix it up than the whole running unit cost in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 At least you don't have to regear it. :( I had to have that done, plus replace the axle bearings and a bent axle shaft. Buying the used D44 axle was the cheapest part of the whole job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I think a re-gear is in my future, it's quite noisy and there seems to be a good amount of lash (though I admit I'm not sure what's normal). After this fix, the only thing stock in my D44 is the housing itself, the ring and pinion, and the pinion bearing. Everything (and I do mean everything! even the vent!) else has been replaced since I got it. Too bad about the shaft, I could have sent you my stockers. And due to a shipping mishap, I have a spare TenFactory alloy unit, if you're interested in upgrading. Got spare 1-piece 297x shafts for the front as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Sorry for digging this back up, but is there a decent advantage to switching to the "u bolt" style yoke over the strap type? I'm doing my Pinion seal here within the next week and bought a spare yoke to have around (you know just in case) and decided to go with a u bolt type. Just wondering if there is a strength difference between the 2 or its just preference... ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 It is stronger; the ubolts are stronger than the flat straps. Most drag racers use them. Another nice feature is the ubolt nuts are easier to get off to w/o rotating the drive shaft and less prone to rounding off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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