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how to prepare for insurance company, when manche is wrecked


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well guys i need all of yalls help on this one

 

ive got another thread on here about the wreck i was involved in on wensday. just throught id make a thread for others that might find themselves in this situation.

 

what should i expect from the insurance company to do/trick me when they come see the comanche.

 

its a 1987 4.0 with a aw4 2wd. 130K, body has some rust, but other than that the truck is perfect

 

i saw the nada guide which has my car rated at 2000 low and 7000 high.

what can i do when they offer me something less than 2000, obviously ill won't except that, but what process should i take to get what the vehicle is worth.

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You must decide what the truck is worth before the adjuster arrives. He will look at it and make a offer. If it's fair take it. Or he will pick out every fault on it. Be prepared to point out how easy those faults will be to fix. You point out the good stuff, All the work you've done to it. Emphasize the fact that it is rapidly becoming a collectors item. Check out Craigs List, EBay, online auto auctions and the CC for sale postings looking for similiar vehicles. Look for the higher priced ones to show him. Good Luck

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well guys i need all of yalls help on this one

 

ive got another thread on here about the wreck i was involved in on wensday. just throught id make a thread for others that might find themselves in this situation.

 

what should i expect from the insurance company to do/trick me when they come see the comanche.

 

its a 1987 4.0 with a aw4 2wd. 130K, body has some rust, but other than that the truck is perfect

 

i saw the nada guide which has my car rated at 2000 low and 7000 high.

what can i do when they offer me something less than 2000, obviously ill won't except that, but what process should i take to get what the vehicle is worth.

First, why are you assuming that the insurance company is going to try to "trick" you? Most of them are honest. They aren't out to "trick" anybody. They aren't in the business of giving money away, though. You found a book that says a 1987 Comanche might be worth $7,000? I doubt that very much. Especially not for a 2WD. And if the body has some rust, then the truck is NOT perfect ... it's rusty.

 

Sorry to be a Dutch uncle, but you have to be realistic in your expectations. If you think they are low-balling you, you can decline their settlement offer and get a second appraisal.

 

What do you think the truck is (was) worth? And how do you justify that valuation?

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The 3800 is insured for $7500. I've been through this. They told me $1328 for it when it got hit the first time. They wouldn't pay more than that, BUT we settled on them paying max with no damage to the title (didn't total it out)

 

My 87 is insured for $8500 with it's current but finished condition. Full coverage on it is $139/month. If it got hit, I'd get $7500 and buy-back of $250.

 

But I spend the $$$ on estimates, around $300/vehicle to make sure I don't get screwed.

 

It's a $2000 vehicle if the floors and frame are solid. Bed is replaceable, rockers are fixable. All it needed was to run and drive with no issues.

 

-Pat

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The 3800 is insured for $7500. I've been through this. They told me $1328 for it when it got hit the first time. They wouldn't pay more than that, BUT we settled on them paying max with no damage to the title (didn't total it out)

 

My 87 is insured for $8500 with it's current but finished condition. Full coverage on it is $139/month. If it got hit, I'd get $7500 and buy-back of $250.

 

But I spend the $$$ on estimates, around $300/vehicle to make sure I don't get screwed.

 

It's a $2000 vehicle if the floors and frame are solid. Bed is replaceable, rockers are fixable. All it needed was to run and drive with no issues.

 

-Pat

 

...and yet here, I'd get 75% of Low Blue Book, and totaled on the title. AKA nowhere near the cost of replacement...so it's advantageous to me to drop the collision coverage on it

no matter what amount it was "insured for". I have 4 vehicles and the MJ costs me $240 a year for $500,000 liability ($20 month).

 

 

So 75% of low book would be about $800 OR I could buy the totaled Jeep for $100. I have at least 3K into it so I'd get reamed. Not the insurance company's fault, that's just the law (here in sunny california).

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The 3800 is insured for $7500. I've been through this. They told me $1328 for it when it got hit the first time. They wouldn't pay more than that, BUT we settled on them paying max with no damage to the title (didn't total it out)

 

My 87 is insured for $8500 with it's current but finished condition. Full coverage on it is $139/month. If it got hit, I'd get $7500 and buy-back of $250.

 

But I spend the $$$ on estimates, around $300/vehicle to make sure I don't get screwed.

 

It's a $2000 vehicle if the floors and frame are solid. Bed is replaceable, rockers are fixable. All it needed was to run and drive with no issues.

 

-Pat

 

...and yet here, I'd get 75% of Low Blue Book, and totaled on the title. AKA nowhere near the cost of replacement...so it's advantageous to me to drop the collision coverage on it

no matter what amount it was "insured for". I have 4 vehicles and the MJ costs me $240 a year for $500,000 liability ($20 month).

 

 

So 75% of low book would be about $800 OR I could buy the totaled Jeep for $100. I have at least 3K into it so I'd get reamed. Not the insurance company's fault, that's just the law (here in sunny california).

 

 

kelly blue book is out-dated. use the other site that was recommended. they MUST go by what YOU want them to go by.

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kelly blue book is out-dated. use the other site that was recommended. they MUST go by what YOU want them to go by.

Where is that written in the law? Maybe in your state. Definitely not in Connecticut. And I doubt either of us knows about California.

 

It used to be that Kelly was always higher than NADA, which is why dealers used NADA to figure your trade-in value but the tax assessors always used Kelly. I haven't followed used vehicle prices for several years, so it wouldn't surprise me if things have changed.

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kelly blue book is out-dated. use the other site that was recommended. they MUST go by what YOU want them to go by.

Where is that written in the law? Maybe in your state. Definitely not in Connecticut. And I doubt either of us knows about California.

 

It used to be that Kelly was always higher than NADA, which is why dealers used NADA to figure your trade-in value but the tax assessors always used Kelly. I haven't followed used vehicle prices for several years, so it wouldn't surprise me if things have changed.

 

 

there is a law protecting the rights of the vehicle owner. you are not required to agree with them. in the end, they WILL give you what you decide you want.

 

that said, whether you cave to them, and decide that's all you want, or you stand your ground...that's up to you.

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there is a law protecting the rights of the vehicle owner. you are not required to agree with them. in the end, they WILL give you what you decide you want.

Cite the law, Pat.

 

I know there are laws that protect consumers, but I seriously doubt there is a law in any state that requires an insurance company to pay whatever value a vehicle owner decides to assign to his wrecked vehicle.

 

And remember, unless RustyBucket lives in your state, anything your state's law says is irrelevant.

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I guesss it varies by state but I had a truck drop a baseball size rock on the road, I couldn't avoid it...it mashed my front (factory) chrome bumper. I could have replaced it for $60-70. Body shop wanted $225, for the same bumper, installed! What a deal!!

 

Although I thought the body shop could fix it on their tab I wanted an aftermarket bumper that I found for $300, BUT the insurance adjuster insisted on giving me $450. For a $60 bumper!!! However, if it (the whole MJ) was totaled out (not ruined, just beyond "beneficially mutual") I could buy it for $100 or they'd take it and give me ~~$800.

 

It's lame. However, even if you have mods that "make it worth more" you won't get you $$ out of it, unless you just F up the bumper.

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