Rustybucket

from my experience you don't have to remove the door handle to remove the door trim. the door handle has some tab that's hold the bezel in place, once you pop the tabs from the bezel to the handle, you need to rotate the bezel to get it off the handle. hope this picture helps, its from a xj with electric windows and locks, but the bezel is the same Image Not Found

well guys i need all of yalls help on this one ive got another thread on here about the wreck i was involved in on wensday. just throught id make a thread for others that might find themselves in this situation. what should i expect from the insurance company to do/trick me when they come see the comanche. its a 1987 4.0 with a aw4 2wd. 130K, body has some rust, but other than that the truck is perfect i saw the nada guide which has my car rated at 2000 low and 7000 high. what can i do when they offer me something less than 2000, obviously ill won't except that, but what process should i take to get what the vehicle is worth.

ive got no idea how much the insurance will give me, what has other people gotten in my situation?, other than the truck having rust, its in great condition, interior a+, engine and tranny are a+ also

its in my driveway now still waiting for the adjuster from the insurance company to come look at it, i got so much flack from my family and the tow guy, about towing it to my house..."its not worth anything" ...."why do you want to pay for the tow, its just going to the crusher, after the insurance guy declares it totaled".... :fs1: haven't made a decision upon what ill do with the truck yet. haveing alot of pressure from the family to get rid of her, but usually when someone tells me to do something i do the other... we will see what the future hold for me and my dear manche

well i finially got home to post some pic.s up for everyone to see Image Not Found Image Not Found doesn't look as bad in the pic.s, but the trans tunnel is all bent up, and the interior plastic pieces are all cracked, steering column is broken, and somehow the windshield is busted, but my head (other than my chin) isn't hurt, i think since the trans tunnel is bent up, the cab twisted and cracked the windshield. worst part is i spent all weekend painting all the chrome pieces in the front black, and fixing a crack in the windshield from a rock on the highway. and now since there all broken you can see the chrome agian. bloody chrome just wants to show itself... ill post some more pic.s later....

How much should expect to get back from the insurance? 130k auto 4.0 Complete front end destroyed, interior panels broke, tran tunnel bent up from inside the cab, so I think she might be totaled

Just totaled my manche, in hospital now, wait shouldn't b on phone

70 bucks for a cell phone holder, well put a thumb in my pooper and call me Sally, ur nuts man

Well to give more info to help in this diagnosis, I am having an oil leak from the pan area, there is also oil on the bellhousing, I was hoping it was from the Rms, and not the seal on the tranny oil pump, reasoning being I don't want to pull the motor, I'll give a stab at replacing the Rms ,oil pump, and pan gasket, to see if it helps my oil pressure, Where do I hook up the external oil pressure gauge to get a accurate reading?

so i just did the test as describe about removed the wire from the sender- went all the way to the right past the 80 psi mark ground the wire- couldnt get a wire to stay in the connector(don't have a second person with me to do this) but with it hooked up to the sending unit, with the engine in acc mode, the needle went to zero.

Thanks, I'm guessing this all can b done without pulling the engine?

Rms?

Ok I stand corrected, I was just speaking on how I fix my problem/ which was similar to the op

Yes I did

So I've got a 4.0 with about 130k, recently did a gauge swap, so I could have more than just a warning light letting me know that armageddon is about to occur. So to my question: I'm reading 20 psi on my gauge cluster no matter what. If the engine is cold when start up, I reads zero for a split second and then goes to 20 psi, if I'm driving on the highway 20 psi, if I'm wot from a light 20 psi. Is my sensor gone bad? Or r the chariots of fire blazing towards me?

Unless u know the op personally how do u know he has a lift, there is nothing in this thread about a lift being in the equation

Little confused on what our asking, if ur asking how to make ur steering wheel line up correctly when ur front wheels are straight, then all u have to do is turn ur steering wheel till ur front wheels are straight, then disconnect the link between the steering box to the steering column, then Turn ur steering wheel till it lines up to the correct position. Now for the "play" that u are describing in the steering, it can be due to a couple things; A.) could be the steering box(same one mentioned above) B.) could be that some bushings have cracked and fallen off or just need to be replaced C.) could be the steering column needs to be replaced I would try B first then A and if u have any money or patience left try C. It maybe be a combination of A and B, that's what it was in my previous xj

Oriely autoparts for the win

well i got the AN fitting off Image Not Found now my only problem is that i can't get the tip of the oil cooler tube out. so anyone know if i can pick one of these up from the local auto store, or will fate take me to the stealership

No metal shavings

So that diff seal, will replacing it help stop this mad vibration I'm experiencing while driving on the highway at 65+mph? And thanks for the responses/help

1987 4.0 aw4 2wd well my first problem is that i was trying to replace the tranny oil cooler lines, and ended up breaking off the tip of the cooler line into the female piece on the tranny(aw4) can i remove the nut(female piece) from the tranny to remove the tip of the cooler line i broke? pictures: Image Not Found and Image Not Found second leak i have is from my rear diff, first thing i did was the cover gasket and new fluid, didnt change anything.... so now ive noticed that its coming from the area that the driveshaft is connected to, my question is, is that a seal that i can replace? here's a picture: Image Not Found

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the close system rad., has a protion that circulates and cools tranny fluid through it

Thanks for the info

And My rig is 2wd, great, so can I just run them without the center cap right?