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Pulling engine/tranny/t-case all as one unit...

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OK, I did a search before I posted this but I am sure that there is a post on it somewhere and I was just looking up the wrong keywords...


87 MJ - 4.0 - 5spd 4x4


I was originally just going to pull the engine and not worry with everything else, but the two bolts at the top are just a wee it hard to get to with my limited mechanical abilities and knowledge...So, after reading a few posts on here, I decided to just pull the whole thing.


Before I get in to what I have done, let me tell you why I am doing this. I have to replace the rear main seal and yes, I know I don't have to pull the engine to do this but the oil pan is seized/stuck to the bottom of the block and will NOT break loose for anything. I also have to replace the motor mounts as the ones I have are totally gone - so I figured why not just pull it - fix it - clean it up - apply a fresh coat of paint and put it back in.

Before it goes back in, I will also be replacing the valve seals as well - try to fix my spark plug foul problem.


OK, as mentioned, I was going to just pull the engine, so I already have the motor mounts undone - wiring harness removed and all other plumbing under the hood undone. Now, I need to know everything I need to do for the rest of the job.


Also as mentioned, I am not a mechanic but I aint afraid to try it either. I am assuming that the rear yoke will just pull out of the tail shaft on the t-case when the engine is pulled.


Are there any hoses that I should not undo from the tranny? As in, coolant hoses or anything? What about linkages?


OK, in simple terms, please explain everything that needs to be done from the back of the engine to the rear driveshaft please. I know that is asking a lot, but I am frustrated as all get out with this thing right now and need some help.


Thanks for any/all help/advice.

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Pull it all in one go...engine, trans, tcase.



Just did it on two 5 speed mj's recently.


Disconnect everything, remove header panel, core support, and radiator.


Remove crossmember, driveshafts, shift linkage, center console, shifter, exhaust, etc. And pull it right out. You will want a load leveller on your hoist.


Do the clutch and slave cylinder while you're in there. Consider going with a 95+ bellhousing and slave so that it's external.

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Thanks y'all.


Wannabe - That was one of the threads I did find when I did my search prior to posting. As a matter of fact, it was the very first one I read when I did my search.


After doing some more research, the group seems to be a bit divided and I would like to know what everyone's real opinion is about pulling everything or undoing the t-case before I pull the engine and tranny out.


For the record, I do not have a load leveler. Everything that goes in front of the engine is either removed or moved out of the way, so it is a clear shot.


And on another note, sorry I forgot who posted it but, someone mentioned just removing the tranny crossmember and lowering the back side of the engine down far enough to get to the bolts on top of the bell housing. this also seemed fairly simple...My concern here is putting it back together.


For the record, I recently pulled and replaced the engine on my 01 Dodge Ram, so this is not my first rodeo...it's just the first time on an MJ and it seems a bit more difficult than the Ram.

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Just remember to drain any fluids or cap off holes that will let them out. :roll:




lollll I did the same thing with my first pull


but taking the tranny out is just a pain in the ......... if you wanna take it out by it self

sure you can do it seperatly but just more work


bye the way renting the crane cost me 25$ for the weekend so if you don't trust your hoist...........

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i pulled my 2.5 and ax-4 out as one, but when i put the 4.0 and aw-4 in they went in seperately... guess i just didnt trust my harbor freight engine hoise to carry all that weight at once... :rotf:

If it's the same one I have, don't worry about it, I have had an entire 4.0/aw4/np231 drivetrain on mine with it set for longest reach (500lb limit) and I was horsing around on it pretty good to get it lined up, didn't even budge. Make sure you have the piston release cranked down as hard as you can get it though or it will slowly leak down.

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