Blasted Height Sensing Valve

[ParadiseMJ]

Well, I've done just about everything I could think of with some help from you's guys to get my brakes to FEEL like brakes should.

 

Here goes:

New pads & calipers

Turned rotors

New shoes, cylinders and brake hardware in rear, drums turned.

Rear brakes adjusted properly

All new fluid

New MC (bench bled and installed)

Booster works fine.

 

Rear Height sensing valve is my problem now. I have 3" of lift in the rear so I knew I'd have to do something to adjust it. I made up the "threaded rod mod", removed the rear brake line and bled the fluid thru the HSV. Nice clean squirt, no air. I've bled the brakes 3 times after flushing all the fluid to nice & clear (in the correct sequence)

 

With the truck empty the angle of the HSV is about 15 degrees up. That is also with the 31 inch spare under the truck. The brakes DO stop me but I just can't get it to that "new brake" feel and it just doesn't seem like I'm getting rear braking.

 

This is turning in to the 2 week brake job. Help me Obi Wan Kenobi...you're my only hope.

[Eagle]

My advice is as it always has been ... remove it. Since mine exploded in a panic stop I consider it a liability to have one in the truck. I would much rather have to deal with too much braking in the rear rather than none.

[Pete M]

have you tried setting the arm at different angles?

[HOrnbrod]

How did the rear brakes work before the lift? I noticed When testing mine in a wet parking lot I had to fool with the adjustment a few times before I got it right. Even 1/4" on the rod length made a hell of a difference. But I have disks back there too.........

[ParadiseMJ]

I am considering taking the ^%@&% thing out, yes, but I just was so stymied by this I wanted to make it work. If I can't I'll likely delete it and plug the one line at the prop valve if that's the right way to do it. (?)

 

I have tried the arm at different angles. I zip tied it up @ 45 deg. My first adjustment was @ zero deg. and I have adjusted it from 0 - to about 15-20 deg. No change. No change on the road and no change in the fluid flow when I bleed it. The wheel cylinders get a nice clean flow at any angle.

 

They didn't. the brakes didn't work at all when I got it. The sensing valve was just hanging there, the fluid was black, all the rubber hoses were dry & crackly, the M/C was toast, the rear shoes and front pads were shot. I've rebuilt/replaced the whole system except the GD valve.

 

Anybody got a link to the delete procedure?? I've seen a drawing but don't really know which line to delete or the thread size for a plug.

[ParadiseMJ]

 

Anybody got a link to the delete procedure?? I've seen a drawing but don't really know which line to delete or the thread size for a plug.

 

More specifically, a write up for the removal of the rear valve, plugging and removing the un-needed line and connection at the rear.

[KYMJ]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22773&hilit=plugging+load+sensing+valve

 

Eagles last post here describes the procedure. Pretty simple. I chose another route, but more complicated. I wanted to save my valve, but it was "blown" and useless.