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project shark attack '91 sportruck


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Hey guys, I'm a new member but ive been checking this board for some time. I'm a long time jeep owner. 10 years or so. 3 XJ's so far and I just bought my first comanche. I'm a long time user over on NAXJA too.

 

I brought home this MJ the other day. I found it on craigslist.

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Talked him down to $400 and I towed it back over the bridge from clearwater behind my '93 XJ.

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I snapped a couple shots before i left for the weekend. trust me, it was killing me not to just dive right in. She doesnt look like much but I think she's gonna clean up nicely.

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Sorry for the small pics but for some reason i can't post pictures larger than 1300 pixels and imageshack doesnt have a better resolution setting than this. what can i do?

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I plan on making this truck my daily driver. Going to repaint it black. small lift. maybe 3 1/2 - 4". 31"s. going to swap the d35 for an explorer 8.8 with deeper gears. 97+ front clip and doors. and A/C.

 

I've got lots of work ahead of me.

 

This 4.0 is covered in oil. I'm thinking bad pcv and valve cover gasket. Hard to tell from the pics but its super crusty.

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The intake is even covered in oil.

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It's not looking good in there but some seafoam should help.

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Broken heater valve.

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One of the heater hoses had been looped back to eliminate the broken valve.

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The title says its a black truck.

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Looks like the PO had an accident.

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Every single fuse was cracked. Ive never seen anything this bad.

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Finally got me a manual jeep with 7 ball shift knob to boot.

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What was wrong with the paint used in the early 90's?

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More evidence of neglect.

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Freebie:Helper spring.

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The rear bumper holding on.

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Welcome to the club.

 

As I am sure you already know, those cracked fuses are most likely the result of the clutch master leaking down the firewall, and rotting the fuse box. If it hasn't been fixed already, that would be something to take into account.

 

Rob L.

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Welcome to the club.

 

As I am sure you already know, those cracked fuses are most likely the result of the clutch master leaking down the firewall, and rotting the fuse box. If it hasn't been fixed already, that would be something to take into account.

 

Rob L.

 

no, i didnt know that. do I need to replace the fuse block and/or the master cylinder?

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Check to see if the leak is current. Brake fluid is very corrosive and destructive to the plastic of the fuse box. If its taken its toll, contacts will corrode in the fuse box, and you'll start getting weird electrical problems. I bet with fuses like that, the fuse box is done for if you start picking at it. Best way to fix it is to put in a new harness and fuse box. It could be damage from an old master, but if its from this one, you should replace it.

 

Rob L.

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Well I figured I would start with the obvious stuff first to try and get this thing started. The battery was obviously toast. The starter would barely even turn over with a jump. I believe this jeep was sitting for many years. There was even a birds nest next to the battery. I drove over to the junk yard and purchased a nearly new autocraft silver for $25 smackeroos. Then i went over to Advance and got some 2 gauge battery cable at $2/ft and some terminals.

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She still doesnt start but the starter turns real good now. The 2 gauge might be overkill but it sure gets the job done. It almost looks like the stuff some kid would run to power his 1000 watt amp in the trunk of his honda.

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Check to see if the leak is current. Brake fluid is very corrosive and destructive to the plastic of the fuse box. If its taken its toll, contacts will corrode in the fuse box, and you'll start getting weird electrical problems. I bet with fuses like that, the fuse box is done for if you start picking at it. Best way to fix it is to put in a new harness and fuse box. It could be damage from an old master, but if its from this one, you should replace it.

 

Rob L.

I already replaced all the fuses before i tried starting it. I don't remember thinking there was anything wrong with the block but I'm definitely going to double check on that. Will a fuse block from a same era XJ work?

 

Also, I believe the fuel pump to be bad. after cranking the starter over and over to no avail, i checked the pressure at the fuel rail and nothing. I had had my brother turn the key to the on position while i was under the gas tank and i don't hear it pressurize like i am used to hearing with my XJ's. There is also no signal from the fuel level sender. I replaced the fuel pump relay with a known good one. nothing. replace the pump and sender or what?

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Have you checked/changed the oil before trying to turn it over for the first time? Would hate to be doing damage to a saveable engine by not spending a few bucks for discount oil and a cheap filter...

 

I picked up a truck that hadn't ran in a year and this was my process:

 

Turned engine over by hand to make sure it was free

Drained oil

Pulled plugs and inspected

Pulled cap/rotor inspected

Pulled valve cover to look at the rockers

Put a new filter and poured the oil over the exposed valve train

Pulled the distributor and primed the oil pump with fresh oil and watched it come out all the rockers

Reinstalled the valve cover

Reinstalled the distributor

 

Started the truck.

 

Seems like a lot, but in my mind, I put $10 worth of cheap wally world oil and a filter on an engine I am potentially saving. sound investment in my book.

 

Rob L. :cheers:

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yeah, Ive checked the oil multiple times. Surprisingly the oil looks great. i poured some seafoam in there to clean out the oil passage ways once it gets running and ill do an oil change shortly there after.

i inspected the plugs and they were covered in oil. that alarmed me at first but i think its seeping down and in from the leaky valve cover gasket. ive seen that happen before.

 

I'm going to test the voltage to the fuel pump and sender this morning.

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I tested the voltage to the fuel pump. Only about 9 volts. I was told it should be 12 volts. I thought I got lucky early in the day when i discovered the one of the wires going into the pump was severed. crimped it back together and still nothing. So i went off to the junkyard to find me a donor MJ with the correct pump. Only one in the yard was a v6 long bed. I got the VIN so i will register it. I thought it was neat that they put it next to a waggy.

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The trip wasnt a total loss. I came home with some other goodies.

Coil spring spacers for $5 each.

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97+ washer fluid reservior for $10.

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Spotted an old CJ with a 258. i wanted to stop and pull the crank for a future stroker project but i had to fight the urge and keep myself on the current task of finding the pump. I'm so easily distracted.

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I went home and decided i might as well pull the pump assembly. can't say I'm surprised it doesnt work.

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I didnt let that stop me from pulling the grill and header panel.

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Ran out of time. couldnt get the fenders off today.

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:eek:

 

Did that MJ have wood grain or was that just a two tone with the reflection of the woody?

 

Also, that sender looks pretty crappy, but most of the time, the first few things to check when testing the fuel pump is the ballast resistor in the engine compartment, and the pump ground. The fuel pump shares a common ground with the tail lamps behind the drivers side tail light. Make sure that ground is good to.

 

And another note... If you breakdown and try to get a sender from a parts store for a comanche, its going to be a big disappointment. No matter what they say, the thing in the box will be a cherokee sender unit, and they aren't the same. I would throw up a wanted ad for a sender in the classifieds and get a decent used one from a member.

 

Rob L. :cheers:

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:eek:

 

Did that MJ have wood grain or was that just a two tone with the reflection of the woody?

 

Also, that sender looks pretty crappy, but most of the time, the first few things to check when testing the fuel pump is the ballast resistor in the engine compartment, and the pump ground. The fuel pump shares a common ground with the tail lamps behind the drivers side tail light. Make sure that ground is good to.

 

And another note... If you breakdown and try to get a sender from a parts store for a comanche, its going to be a big disappointment. No matter what they say, the thing in the box will be a cherokee sender unit, and they aren't the same. I would throw up a wanted ad for a sender in the classifieds and get a decent used one from a member.

 

Rob L. :cheers:

The comanche at the yard had the wood grain side decals.

 

The ground behind the tail light looks good and i also jumped the ballast resistor to no avail.

 

I have researched the fuel sender issue and heard how they arent made anymore. thats why i was at the junkyard. think of how many of those senders were lost to the clunker program. what a shame.

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:eek:

And another note... If you breakdown and try to get a sender from a parts store for a comanche, its going to be a big disappointment. No matter what they say, the thing in the box will be a cherokee sender unit, and they aren't the same. I would throw up a wanted ad for a sender in the classifieds and get a decent used one from a member.

 

Rob L. :cheers:

 

x2

even tho the parts store looked under comanche it was still a cherokee part and didn't work :fs1:

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is there a way to combine parts from a new cherokee unit and an old comanche unit and have it work correctly?

 

Yes. The pumps are the same... All you need to do is take your pump out of the sender unit assembly, and put the new unit in. Its not that hard really.

 

But... With the condition of your sender unit assembly, putting that thing back into the truck is just asking for trouble.

 

Rob L.

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You need to go back to that yard and get the waggy front to put on your truck!

i was gonna pull it to put on my '93 XJ but it was damaged :(.

I'm going to be putting a 97+ front clip on project shark attack.

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is there a way to combine parts from a new cherokee unit and an old comanche unit and have it work correctly?

 

Yes. The pumps are the same... All you need to do is take your pump out of the sender unit assembly, and put the new unit in. Its not that hard really.

 

But... With the condition of your sender unit assembly, putting that thing back into the truck is just asking for trouble.

 

Rob L.

the sender was what i was mostly referring to. someone on NAXJA said it might be able to be cleaned but the sender itself is too delicate to be swapped between assemblies.

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seems the more i work on this thing the more carnage i find. i took out the rubber floor covering today and guess what? ...yeah:(

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passenger side isnt too bad.

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driver's rear

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i also got the tank pulled. figured out why the the pump and sender as so F'd up. the tank has holes in it. why is this truck so messed up?

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on an good note, i did get my 97+ washer reservoir installed.

i cut the hole with a hole saw and some metal shears.

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plenty of room for the ecm but i did have to move some harness grounds.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Switched to photobucket. Hopefully the pics will be better.

 

Took the 97+ panels off my 95. Went back to the old panels on the XJ.

 

Damage from the leaky clutch master.

 

Scrap shelving I'm using to repair the floors.

Test fit.

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