comanche12 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 hey guys its keep bother me when i walk to engine bay area... the front coils was little bowed forward like axle's caster is little too over negative? and rear view of my jeep was seem tilt like there someone (fat lady) sit on left side of my jeep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 What is your caster set to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 i have no idea, its been like this when i bought this mj few months ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 might want to take an angle finder to it and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 yea but i remember when i was work on oilpan and notice the bottom of coil base, its seem forward to like -2 to -5 degree. which cause my coil start little bow forward in negative Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 yea but i remember when i was work on oilpan and notice the bottom of coil base, its seem forward to like -2 to -5 degree. which cause my coil start little bow forward in negative How long, from eye to eye are your lower links? I know there is a ballpark number that they should be... Someone help me out here... Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 yea but i remember when i was work on oilpan and notice the bottom of coil base, its seem forward to like -2 to -5 degree. which cause my coil start little bow forward in negative How long, from eye to eye are your lower links? I know there is a ballpark number that they should be... Someone help me out here... Rob L. what do u mean lower links? a endlink for swaybar? i just realize that my mj don't have swaybar. i just went outside and check it again to see how far its bow... its about 2inches forwarding bow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Wow.. dem pic remind me of some old TACO BELL commercials about twisted necks from tilting them to eat tacos... :roll: Some excellent grammar and terminology going on too... :rotf: :huh???: Lower Control Arms, or LCA's are the "lower links" Auto is asking you about. (Shame on you man! :doh: ) Here is the chart he was refering to as well... http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html Down at the bottom of the page. Just remember this is a GUIDE as its for the use of drop brackets. Pete is right, :agree: you need to check and see what your caster measurement is. Its very common for our trucks to lean to one side. If it really bothers you, throw a small spacer on the one side thats lower... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 Wow.. dem pic remind me of some old TACO BELL commercials about twisted necks from tilting them to eat tacos... :roll: Some excellent grammar and terminology going on too... :rotf: :huh???: Lower Control Arms, or LCA's are the "lower links" Auto is asking you about. (Shame on you man! :doh: ) Here is the chart he was refering to as well... http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html Down at the bottom of the page. Just remember this is a GUIDE as its for the use of drop brackets. Pete is right, :agree: you need to check and see what your caster measurement is. Its very common for our trucks to lean to one side. If it really bothers you, throw a small spacer on the one side thats lower... CW spacer aka body lift? also what about those hockey pucks that you did to yours? ohhh duh me lower control arm :doh: well i have long control arm (come with when i bought my mj) ps: sorry I'm still rookie on those parts I'm still more knowlegde about trackready parts(I'm subaru guy) its been connect from trans skid area to front axle. and its been clamped not bolt on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyindiane Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Man ohhh Man. If it were me I would start over with that front end. I am not trying to sound mean but it does not look safe at all. I see a homebrew 3 link/radius arm with bad welds holding it together. you might be better off starting over. Sorry and best of luck. -Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 Man ohhh Man. If it were me I would start over with that front end. I am not trying to sound mean but it does not look safe at all. I see a homebrew 3 link/radius arm with bad welds holding it together. you might be better off starting over. Sorry and best of luck. -Gary its ok man, thanks to warn me. ill try to start it all over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 That is a FORD front axle grafted into your jeep with home made long arms and mid mount. In that case, YES twisted coil are normal as its not a perfect fit. Pete has a similar (BUT CORRECT) Ford radius arm suspension in his MJ. Most all the advice recieved (sans the comments on the scary welds) are not applicable to your setup. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one_bad_MJ Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 hey guys its keep bother me when i walk to engine bay area... the front coils was little bowed forward like axle's caster is little too over negative? and rear view of my jeep was seem tilt like there someone (fat lady) sit on left side of my jeep mine looks like that also. my coils are mega bowed out. and my jeep has a gangsta lean to it. if you turn the wheels while sitting there it will level and lean to the other side. i have drop brackets so i doubt my caster is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 ahhh, so you're running the ford arms, eh? :brows: I don't have time to do it this second, but later tonight I'll explain how I worked that issue out on my truck. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 hmm maybe thats why its lean to one side because the steering drag link was little short but my steering was all rotation to like one and half to make wheel straight... ford arm? i don't know haha i want to rebuild and do my own creative with trans skid more strong and duraiblty not too thin. its like 16-18 gauge thickness of skid no problem, take your time, sir Sean B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryH88bt Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Man ohhh Man. If it were me I would start over with that front end. I am not trying to sound mean but it does not look safe at all. I see a homebrew 3 link/radius arm with bad welds holding it together. you might be better off starting over. Sorry and best of luck. -Gary That was my first reaction when I saw the pics of the steering and control arms. Personally, I'd redo the whole thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 yea i know i will do all start over but blame on previous owner of my mj which i heard its from the seller's nephews when they was tried to work on it but fail so the seller sold it to me. :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 The Ford radius arms (which you have modified versions) are designed to be parallel to the ground when under a stock late 70s ford truck. When you lift the truck and angle the arm downward, the coil bucket goes with it. and since the coil is bolted to the bucket, the base points forward and bows the coil. My solution was to make a pair of steel wedges the lean the coil bucket back. Wasn't especially hard or expensive. I had a local shop cut 2 steel bars in half on their big bandsaw and then I drilled the holes. and in case you're wondering how I bolted that up, the cut bar gave me 2 wedges each, with matching angles. one went under the coil bucket, the other got trimmed to size and went inside the bucket so that the bolts had a flat place to tighten down on. lower wedge: upper wedge: before wedges: after wedges: That lean you're experiencing might be due to improper tightening of the radius arm bolts (the ones that pull the 2 halves together around the axle). If done one side completely and then the other, the arms can twist your truck to one side. somewhere online I saw the proper procedure for that spelled out. haven't needed it in years though, so I'd have to hunt it down again. make yourself familiar with some older ford sites. I like fullsizebronco.com also jeffsbroncograveyard.com has lots of useful parts for sale. also, in order to get any decent flex, you'll want to cut off the stock lca brackets to get them out of the way and dump those poly C-bushings for some old rubber ones. but after you do that, you'll need to get the bumpstops properly positioned to get from eating the fenders or shocks. they'll need to point to the side slightly to keep from hitting the coils and to hit the coil bucket squarely upon compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 The Ford radius arms (which you have modified versions) are designed to be parallel to the ground when under a stock late 70s ford truck. When you lift the truck and angle the arm downward, the coil bucket goes with it. and since the coil is bolted to the bucket, the base points forward and bows the coil. My solution was to make a pair of steel wedges the lean the coil bucket back. Wasn't especially hard or expensive. I had a local shop cut 2 steel bars in half on their big bandsaw and then I drilled the holes. and in case you're wondering how I bolted that up, the cut bar gave me 2 wedges each, with matching angles. one went under the coil bucket, the other got trimmed to size and went inside the bucket so that the bolts had a flat place to tighten down on. lower wedge: upper wedge: before wedges: after wedges: That lean you're experiencing might be due to improper tightening of the radius arm bolts (the ones that pull the 2 halves together around the axle). If done one side completely and then the other, the arms can twist your truck to one side. somewhere online I saw the proper procedure for that spelled out. haven't needed it in years though, so I'd have to hunt it down again. make yourself familiar with some older ford sites. I like fullsizebronco.com also jeffsbroncograveyard.com has lots of useful parts for sale. also, in order to get any decent flex, you'll want to cut off the stock lca brackets to get them out of the way and dump those poly C-bushings for some old rubber ones. but after you do that, you'll need to get the bumpstops properly positioned to get from eating the fenders or shocks. they'll need to point to the side slightly to keep from hitting the coils and to hit the coil bucket squarely upon compression. what a great info to learn! thank you very much i was thinking about samething with those wedge but those info is more clearly than i though :cheers: where can i buy those steel plates? i would said 2x1x3or 4 steel plate? then cut it in 15ish degree into wedge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyindiane Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Don't forget to replace that trac bar with somthing better. Perferably double sheer with a new frame bracket. Also need to replace/upgrade the steering componets. After that you should be set. :cheers: -Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 what a great info to learn! thank you very much i was thinking about samething with those wedge but those info is more clearly than i though :cheers: where can i buy those steel plates? i would said 2x1x3or 4 steel plate? then cut it in 45 degree into wedge? 45* is way too much. the coil buckets would then lean backwards and the coils would follow suit. I had to go look up what I used. from my photo account: I made wedges out of 1x4 barstock cut to 3" and the turned on end and cut diagonally. The inner wedges are 2" wide, but cut from the same 1x4 so the angle is the same at about 10-12*. Cost me about $20. I'll draw a picture when I get back home later today so it's more clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 alright no problem take your time. :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MjPioneer Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 When/where/who did you buy this from? I watched this very truck (Or one absolutly identical) be built on oh crap I forget what forum. I remeber the coil bow being somthing of mention in the build thread, the builder was calling it "anti-squat" but "anti-squat" should only apply to the rear end. The front and rear axles have little truss's on them correct? The one from the thread did, just trying to see if this is it. I just scanned the web for the build thread and couldnt find it but then again I didn't look to hard. If I remeber correct when I found it I googled "Radius arms on jeep comanche" My suggestions, Shims, drop it down an inch or two, man up and lengthen those arms a little bit (But hell, I wouldnt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 When/where/who did you buy this from? I watched this very truck (Or one absolutly identical) be built on oh crap I forget what forum. I remeber the coil bow being somthing of mention in the build thread, the builder was calling it "anti-squat" but "anti-squat" should only apply to the rear end. The front and rear axles have little truss's on them correct? The one from the thread did, just trying to see if this is it. I just scanned the web for the build thread and couldnt find it but then again I didn't look to hard. If I remeber correct when I found it I googled "Radius arms on jeep comanche" My suggestions, Shims, drop it down an inch or two, man up and lengthen those arms a little bit (But hell, I wouldnt) i bought it from guy in Lombard,il from last April 20 and no i haven't drive it around because of those many issue. but hey! i only bought it for 1300. this mj is from the guy who sold it, its his nephews who worked on it during its was in mich. what do u mean little truss? I'm totally happy to give u more answers. edit: try expand the search more like type radius arms on 1987 jeep comanche? my mj is 1987 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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