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Crush Sleeve


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OK, I've amassed all the tools and parts to do my first (four) gear swap. Been researching for a couple years on the subject, I feel confidant and ready to jump in. My question is this: To achieve the amount of torque needed to crush the "crushsleeve", can I get it with a long cheeter bar, or maybe I was thinking of buying a torque multiplier (if I can find one for a decent price). My rattle gun definitely won't do it. I'm not asking how to set preload or anything like that, I'm just asking for thoughts or suggestions on achieving the desired amount of torque. BTW I do have a pinion holding tool (made it with my HF welder jamminz.gif ) and a quality 3/4 drive socket set.

 

Lastly on the 8.8, I'm wanting to use a crushsleeve eliminator. I know how the shims are added or subtracted to get correct preload, but how many ft/lbs should the nut be torqued to take preload measurement? And yes I do have a in/lb torque wrench (beam type).

 

What torque range are we talking on the pinion nut, 400 ft/lb max? More?

I am also aware not to overtighten, have extra crushsleeves and pinion nuts.

 

So there is no confusion, I'm doing 2 D30s and 2 8.8s, 4.10 and 4.56 ratios.

 

Believe me I've definitely done my homework on this, but as everybody knows it never hurts to ask for pointers on the stuff I can't find answers to.

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It takes considerably more than 210 foot-pounds to initially crush the sleeve, but you want to be sure you don't go too far because then you get to install a new sleeve and start over. I believe the torque required will be in the 350 foot-pound range, but the fact is that's not what you measure, so I don't know if anyone has quantified it. You have an inch-pound torque wrench? The actual measurement is how much resistance there is to rotating the pinion with no carrier installed in the housing. That's measured in inch-pounds. (Sounds like you already know that.)

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I guess the short question is will I be able to get the 350 ft/lbs (+/-) with my 3/4" socket set and a cheater bar?

Keep in mind that the first part of my OP was about the crushsleeve on the D30s, the second part was with the use of a crushsleeve eliminator on the 8.8.

jimoshels quote: For the pre load, just snug it up tight. No play. For final assembly Minimum, 210ft. lbs.

I believe he is referring to the 8.8 without crushsleeve.

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Quoting from FSM

1.Install the original preload shims,drive pinion gear shaft front bearing, dust cap, axle yoke, washer and the original nut on the drive pinion gear shaft.

2. Tighten the drive pinion gear shaft nut with 285N*m (210 ft lbs)torque. Do the preload check. Not printing it here as you already have it. Remove the drive pinion gear shaft and make neccesary shim adjustments.

9. Tighten the nut with 285N*m (210 ft lbs) torque.

But I could be wrong. Jim

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I guess the short question is will I be able to get the 350 ft/lbs (+/-) with my 3/4" socket set and a cheater bar?

Keep in mind that the first part of my OP was about the crushsleeve on the D30s, the second part was with the use of a crushsleeve eliminator on the 8.8.

jimoshels quote: For the pre load, just snug it up tight. No play. For final assembly Minimum, 210ft. lbs.

I believe he is referring to the 8.8 without crushsleeve.

 

I used a 3/4 inch rachet, and a BIG PIPE.

 

Rob L.

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will the vehicles be on a lift or jack stands? if stands what works well is to have your holder braced against the leaf spring to stop rotation, and use a floor jack against the breaker bar to crush the sleeve. I strongly advise against using any impact gun for crushing the sleeve as the rattling/ hammering of the gun can ruin the new bearing and race

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Quoting from FSM

1.Install the original preload shims,drive pinion gear shaft front bearing, dust cap, axle yoke, washer and the original nut on the drive pinion gear shaft.

2. Tighten the drive pinion gear shaft nut with 285N*m (210 ft lbs)torque. Do the preload check. Not printing it here as you already have it. Remove the drive pinion gear shaft and make neccesary shim adjustments.

9. Tighten the nut with 285N*m (210 ft lbs) torque.

But I could be wrong. Jim

Is that from the Ford FSM for the 8.8? It can't be from the Jeep FSM because the Dana 35 axle does not use preload shims. The only shims on the pinion are for adjusting the pinion depth. The preload is set by collapsing the crush sleeve. I have the original MJ FSM. It says the same thing as the '88 Cherokee FSM.

 

NOTE: The pinion gear bearings must be preloaded. Preload is maintained by a collapsible spacer installed between the front bearing and a shoulder on the pinion gear (1).

 

Install and center the correct thickness pinion depth shim in the rear bearing cup bore in the housing.

 

NOTE: If ne side of the shim is chamfered, install the shim so the chamfered side faces the bottom of the bearing cup bore.

 

Install the pinion rear bearing cup in the housing bearing cup bore.

 

Install the pinion gear in the rear bearing cup.

 

Install the collapsible spacer on the pinion gear.

 

Install the front bearing on the pinion gear.

 

Install the replacement pinion oil seal using Installer J-22661.

 

Install the axle yoke.

 

Thread the replacement pinion nut on the gear.

 

Tighten the pinion nut only enough to remove end play using Tool J-8614-01 (2) and a socket (3).

 

Rotate the pinion when tightening the nut to seat bearings evenly.

 

Continue tightening the pinion nut to collapse the spacer and preload the bearings. When a very slight increase in pinion turning effort is noted, check the pinion rotating torque using an inch-pound torque wrench. The rotating torque should be 2 to 3 N-m (15 -25 in-lbs).

 

CAUTION: Do not exceed the specified preload torque and do not loosen the pinion nut to reduce preload if desired torque is exceeded.

 

If the prescribed preload torque is exceeded, replace the collapsible spacer and seal. Install the yoke and the replacement pinion nut and adjust preload torque again.

That's direct from the book, step-by-step. There is NO mention of the actual torque on the pinion nut because that's not the way the FSM says to check it. However, friends who worked in Jeep dealerships have told me that it takes a lot more than 250 ft-lbs to collapse the sleeve to get the indicated rotating torque.

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Speaking from the vast experience :D I got when I tried to regear my D35C (w. new crush sleeve), I could never crush the sucker. Tried the 3' cheater bar and in desperation an impact gun supposedly good up to 500 ft.lbs. Never did crush. Ended up reusing the old crushed crush sleeve and had low speed vibes because the preload was never right. Ended up getting it regeared by a pro a couple of years later.

 

If you have an option of using a crush sleeve eliminator w. the 8.8, that's the course of action I'd take. I understand shims and torque, but do not understand crush sleeves. They suck. :cheers:

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He said D30 which I thot was the front axle. That was the data I sent as copied from the 1989 FSM. Not familiar with the the 8.8.

 

Yep - missed the D30 mention. :doh: BUT I do think the D30 and D35 use the same crush sleeves. :hmm:

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I was referring to the 8.8 when checking pinion preload with the crushsleeve eliminator.

I fully understand the workings of the D30 crush sleeve.

The axles will be out of the vehicle on differential stands that I made for this purpose.

Good thing I have a really big cheater bar and 3/4 drive sockets.

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He said D30 which I thot was the front axle. That was the data I sent as copied from the 1989 FSM. Not familiar with the the 8.8.

Sorry -- my bad. I thought we were discussing dana 35 rears. I completely missed the D30 mention in the opening post.

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He said D30 which I thot was the front axle. That was the data I sent as copied from the 1989 FSM. Not familiar with the the 8.8.

 

Yep - missed the D30 mention. :doh: BUT I do think the D30 and D35 use the same crush sleeves. :hmm:

 

there were some d30's that used pinion preload shims instead of crush sleeves as the used set of 4:10's I installed in my 93 ZJ had shims. Got a set from Randys R&P along with full install kit.

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