Rokhound Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I no that this has been beat to death with a big ugly stick so I am going to bring it up again just to get point in the right direction. :oops: I have Ford 8.8 under the rear w/ I want to say 3.53 gears and the front is a D35 or D30 I think w/ 3.73 gears :dunno: . Now I no that I need to change one to match the other…….. or do I put 4.10 in both all I want is a weekend worrier/daily driver. I have about a 6.5” lift in the making and want to run 33s. What is your guy thought or better yet since this has been kick around before can you tell me what post/website to go to. Also how do you tell what gear you have I have heard you guy talk about counting teeth and rotation on tire once again I no this has been kick around please point me in the right direction. :???: Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 If you're paying for gears for both axles, I'd get 4.56 to go with 33s (well, actually, I'd go much deeper, but that's me and the truck won't see a lot of highway commuting). Don't forget to upgrade the shafts/joints in the front axle. Gear ratios should be stamped in the side of the ring gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I would go with 4.10's as a weekend wheeler. If you need to find your ration count the number of teeth on your ring gear and your pinion. take the number of your ring gear and divide by the number of pinion teeth. ring gear teeth / pinion teeth = Ratio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Can't you only go down to 4.88 on the D30? Meh, whatever. I'd say 4.56 or 4.88. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 Pete said "well, actually, I'd go much deeper, but that's me and the truck won't see a lot of highway commuting" What do you mean by deeper? Sorry for the newbie question but I want to make sure I understand what I am getting into. And I do want it so I can drive it to a local wheeling place it about 30 min from me. I no that when I start this axel project I am going with lockers as well I was reading the other post and I think the Aussie locker is going to be great for this project. I no that most of you guys will say go with the full locker like OX or some thing like that but my pockets aren’t as deep as some. I found a shop here in town that said if I buy all the parts he would set the gears up for me for around 150 to 200 I thought that was a hell of deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 $200 for setting up gears in 2 axles is a great deal! Frequently it's that much for only one axle. :D Higher gears are actually lower numbers, and lower/deeper gears are higher numbers. And when I say that I'd go deeper, I'm talkin' about 5.38 or 5.86 gears or whatever it is that maxes out my axles, but then I have a Dana 44 front and a 9" rear so that allows me more choice than the Dana 30. Yup, the Dana 30 only goes to 4.88. Personally though, if I was building a driver on 33s with a tight budget, I'd go hunt down a Dana 30 and Ford 8.8 with 4.10s in them already. If you're patient, you should be able to find good condition ones for cheaper than trying to reuse the axles you've got. Plus then you can sell what you have and re-coup a few bucks. If we think about your current axles as free, then $400 for gears and install kits + $200 for installation = $600. Not all areas of the country are created equal, but with some patience I can get a pair of 4.10 axles (30 and 8.8) for under $250. Are there any pull-your-parts in Iowa? car-part.com may help with the regular 'yards. If I was paying for a gear install, I would go lower than what is available in the junkyards. Plus I have 4.10s and 33s right now and wish it was just a hair deeper on the street. It's going to be quite a while before I can get lower than what I have now, as I'm also going with a Hi-9 rear third member, selectible lockers, etc. at the same time. To take this hext step will cost more than I have in all 3 of my MJs. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 Thanks Pete, I think your right I am on a tight budget so I think I well wait to see what happen and the local pick and pull there is a new place called Wrench-n-Go and for a $100 per axel that is disc to disc. That way I can sell the axles that I do have and buy my lockers or like you said get some money back. I can tell you now this is going to be a longer build then I thought it was going to be but that is alright I like a challenge. And the price I gave you before was per axle sorry for miss leading you guys but like you said still a hell of a deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 if you can get axles for $100 then I'd go and find a 4.10 8.8 and a 4.10 d30 as pete suggested. 4.10 d30 you can find in a 4 banger XJ, YJ or TJ, so it shouldn't be hard. The YJ axle would need bracketry, but the TJ axle would bolt in. XJ up to 2000 are HP, YJ would also be HP. XJ would bolt in. TJ axle would bolt in but it would be LP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I can tell you now this is going to be a longer build then I thought it was going to be but that is alright I like a challenge. They always take longer than we expect. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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