4x4 does not work what is it???

[comanche13]

my 4x4 never works i shimmed the fork over and the transfer case does shift into 4low so wouldn't that show that the transfer case is still working? just seeing if anyone has any ideas before I go out there and start tearing stuff off?

Thanks

Tim

[deziped]

What year MJ? What transmission? After you put it in N to engage the transfer case (TC) into low and then shift the transmission back into a gear, what happens? Does the vehicle move. Why do you think your 4x4 is not working?

[Eagle]

Are you saying that 4x4 doesn't work at all, or that low range doesn't engage? If it's only low range, I'd say the lever needs to be adjusted. There's a neutral position between 4-Hi and 4-Lo ... perhaps your shifter isn't getting beyond the neutral detent.

 

Have you put it up on four jack stands and tried running it with the wheels off the ground to verify that the front wheel don't turn?

[comanche13]

no my 4 hi isn't working either i had it out on this mud hole and my front tires weren't moving no matter what i put it in. but it would drop into low gear in the transfer case but the front would still not engage.

 

its a 1990 jeep pioneer with 4L ax15 dana 30 front and 35 rear

[Geonovast]

Are you sure you shimmed the fork over the correct direction?

 

Did you move the collar over to the engaged position before putting the motor back on?

[Eagle]

I agree with Geonovast. It sounds like you don't have the axle disconnect ... connected. Jack up all four wheels Run it in 4WD. See if the front driveshaft is turning. If you can't jack up all four wheel, put it into 4WD and in gear (any gear). Motor off. Jack up the front wheels and see if you can turn the wheels. If so, crawl under and see if the driveshaft is turning with the wheels. If not, try to turn the driveshaft by hand. If the driveshaft isn't turning but the wheels are, you didn't engage the axle disconnect properly. You may have accidently shimmed it into the disconnected position rather than the connected position.

[Pete M]

It's possible that the linkage is in need of adjustment. :dunno:

 

[comanche13]

no it was shimmed because it worked then about an hour later it just stopped i'm going to try to adjust the linkage and see if that helps if not i'll just wait till i stick my new transfer case with the SYE on it

[Pete M]

maybe the shimming failed?

[comanche13]

i checked that when i got home i also changed the diff oil while i was at it and looked in there.

[Eagle]

Simple test. Jack up the right front wheel. See if you can turn it by hand. If so, the disconnect isn't locked.

 

If the transfer case shifts into low range (meaning the crawl speed is appropriate for low range), then adjustment of the linkage is not the problem.

[comanche13]

well i figured out why my 4wd wasn't working the fork was still attached but the bottom wasn't so it would not hold. has this happened to anyone else when they shim the fork?

 

[Pete M]

the fork is known to crack. probably didn't have much to do with shimming unless maybe you used one too many washers. :dunno:

 

I don't seem to have the photo anymore, but one guy used a hose clamp directly on the shaft to keep the collar in place. seemed to work. :popcorn:

[comanche13]

i'll look that up

[BORDENCOMANCHE]

Why do we hate the CAD axle?

 

I remember that when I first got my 4x4 going, I drove right into the snow in my back yard only to find that my front two wheels weren't powered.

 

I did what I do best, mash down the throttle, cuss, swear and turn the wheels. If not all at once, but pretty quickly thereafter my 4x4 worked never to give me a problem yet, I guess the innards of the axles must have been ceased or rusty or something, I dunno, but it worked. As a matter of fact I even trimmed the vacuum fitting for a better fit and zap strapped it to the motor for more security.

[Geonovast]

Why do we hate the CAD axle?

 

It's unreliable, and more to the point, unnecessary.

 

The lines can crack. The plug can fall off. The plug can get full of crap and cause it to not work. The motor can fail. The fork can crack. The collar can crack. The Needle bearing between the shafts can fail.

 

Locking the CAD over eliminates most of these problems. Getting a non-CAD shaft gets rid off all of them. The amount of gas you save by having the CAD there, IMO, is simply not worth it. I'd rather lose the 1/2 MPG and know I'll have 4wd when I need it. My first 2 XJs had CADs, and I never had a problem. I'll never rely on one again, however.

 

The only practical reason for keeping that I can see, is to put a manual actuation kit on it, be it cable, electric, or a better vacuum system. And only to have 2 LO.