primer and paint for valvecover

[james750]

I already have engine enamel to paint my valve cover, but would it be ok to use regular primer on it?

[Carl'sMJ]

I'm no paint expert, but if it was me I would use some sort of high heat primer. RustOleum and Dupli-color both make this product.

[mfpdm]

:agree:

 

Even though the valve cover shouldn't get too hot, and most primers are good to about 200 degrees, play it safe and use the high temp primer. Afterall it's only a little bit more.

 

Just remember that it's the prep work that makes a good paint job. :thumbsup:

 

 

:cheers:

[Dirteatr717]

id go with the duplicolor high temp :thumbsup:

post some pics when your done!

[HOrnbrod]

I already have engine enamel to paint my valve cover, but would it be ok to use regular primer on it?

 

Are you using the cast aluminum or steel cover?

[james750]

It's cast aluminum. I was going to do a HO VC swap, but the gasket started puking and I didn't have time to go and pull an newer VC. So I'll make this work.

 

It's almost done now, I ran out and got some high temp primer, and painted the third coat of flat black on about an hour ago, tomorrow I will sand down the ridges on top of the cover to expose bare metal and take some pics before the install.

 

On a side note, it was more than slightly amazing how stuck on the grease and sludge was to this cover. It spent about 2 hours in an automatic parts washer this afternoon as well as two manual solvent tank sessions to get the exterior somewhat clean and the baffles clean enough to work, the inside of the cover is still dirty though, but cleaner than it was. I ended up taking a bench grinder to the cover to get the remaining pieces of paint off, exterior was a clean pallet at that point, but the inside is a different story.

[HOrnbrod]

Actually the alum cover was used up to 1994 I believe. I tried to refinish my 91 cover using non-aluminum hi-temp primer and paint and it did not last over a year before it started flaking off. The alum covers get real hot. I finally did it right and had it blasted then powder coated. Still looks like new after four years now. Hope the paint holds up for you. :cheers:

[james750]

That worries me, I guess I'll see what happens... I did end up using grill paint that is supposed to be good up to 1200 degree's. Realized I didn't have enough engine enamel to get the job done, maybe that is for the better?

[HOrnbrod]

I also used the 1200 degree primer and paint. Maybe I didn't prep well enough - I don't know. Have done quite a lot of prep/painting before. :dunno:

 

You'll prolly be okay - time will tell. :cheers:

[mfpdm]

I used engine primer and enamel that is good up to 500 degrees. If it's getting hot enough to blister that paint, you have bigger things to worry about. The only thing that got the 1200 degree paint was the header.

 

Don, did you bake yours after you painted it? Just curious as all the high temp(1200 degree paints) that I saw required you to bake it up to 300 degrees for two hours or so. :dunno:

There is a process for headers that I have to do when I finally get the motor up and running to cure it without baking. Wife wouldn't let me put it in the new oven. :no:

 

:cheers:

[HOrnbrod]

Don, did you bake yours after you painted it? Just curious as all the high temp(1200 degree paints) that I saw required you to bake it up to 300 degrees for two hours or so. :dunno:

:cheers:

 

Nope, did not. I had nothing big enough to bake the cover at home. But it was a 100 degree day when I painted it and I let it air dry for a couple of days. The humidity was maximus too. :D The paint just kind of crinkled over time, but it looked really good at first. Rustolem brand. :hmm:

[mfpdm]

Crinkly paint usually is a result of humidity. At least thats what has happen to me more times that I would have liked during my build. Only thing that sucks worse is painting and the temp hits the dew point. Fogs it every time. :shake:

 

I wish I would have keep the old oven. I would have hooked it up in the garage to bake painted parts and could even powdercoat small stuff. :D

 

:cheers:

[Carl'sMJ]

:hijack: Sorry, but on the same subject... I just wanted to clarify about the different valve covers. I have a 1992 4.0L HO and it still has the original aluminum valve cover. Is there a benefit to swapping this valve cover for the newer steel one (1994 +) like I have in my '01 XJ?

 

I am just a bit confused because the newer ones are always referred to as the HO valve cover, while mine is the older aluminum style on a HO 4.0L. Thanks in advance.

[DJM/78]

A couple of years ago I was painting fireplaces with high heat paint and what I found is that most high heat paints have a problem

 

sticking to the primer . The cracks or spider marks that appear are usually result of either micro dust , surface moisture or low - temp.

 

You might want to check out your local professional paint supply shops that might have some better cleaners and supply's to work

with.

I found a evaporating cleaner that removes micro dust and particles from the surface . I know we used to use it in the body shops .

works great , but its expensive . Like 23. bucks a can , made by PPG .

 

You can find other brands that work just as good , maybe cheaper ? :dunno:

 

When you start your first coat of paint , spray very small amounts to the surface , let the paint stick to the surface before coating .

 

As far as baking , That works the best , but if you install the valve cover , the motor temp should help cure it on ?