jjstohr Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Just bought a well used 88. Still a very nice truck, just needs some TLC. It has some hesitation on acceleration so I tried a new fuel filter. I got some really nasty black stuff out of the rear of the filter. I ran the truck around the block and it felt like a new truck :D , for about 5 minutes :fs1: . Then, It started to stutter again. I think it was a good experiment, but I think I just wasted a new filter. I guess that I need to drop the tank and see where that stuff is coming from. Any tips on doing this without hurting myself? Also I am not really fond of the bench seat. What are my options- easiest to hardest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Welcome to the club. For your seat info, see my build thread linked in my sig. I have had 4 or 5 (maybe more) different types of seats in my truck! Good luck with your choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Welcome! :waving: What condition is your tank in? rusty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjstohr Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share Posted December 5, 2009 My tank doesn't seem to be too bad from the outside, but that doesn't say much for the inside. I was thinking about pulling it down and looking, and them I saw new tanks on ebay for $100 delivered. I think that I will just throw the old one away and know what is inside of the new one. I figured that I would put on a new pump while it was down. How hard is dropping a tank? Any tips there would be very apreciated as I have never done this before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Tank can be dropped without removing anything, but it is easier if you disconnect the rear u-joint and drop the drive shaft down to give you more room...it could be the small rubber hose inside the tank that delivers fuel, they tend to rot over time..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjstohr Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 Things have gotten better. The truck doesn't always stutter. Occasionaly, it feels like I am getting a lot of power, but not always. Through each gear, it starts out ok, but then gets week. Then right about when I think I should be shifting, I get a large boost in power. Could this be a timing issue? The previous owner replaced the Distributor Cap, but I don't think he changed out the Distributor itself. Could this be a problem? This is starting to turn the corner on this truck. It is actually getting to be a good ride. I see why you are all here with these trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shandley Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 There are lots and lots of things that can cause studdering in our wonderful trucks. You have black stuff coming out of the tank. That'll be a problem. lol. One other good thing to check. Make sure your EGR valve is good. Go buy a new gasket for it (cheap) and pull it off. It's 2 half inch bolts. Take the EGR valve upside down and push on the inside metal part. It should move pretty freely with about 10 lbs of pressure. Push it all the way down and watch it come back to the seating place. If it stops or stumbles, you are due for a new one. If it doesn't go all the way closed, you are due for a new one. A good temp solution if either one of these things are happening: Carb cleaner all over it. Move the diaphragm in and out over an over. More carb cleaner. Then clean out around little shaft at the seating area where the diaphragm closes completely. Clean it well but don't score the shaft. When it is all cleaned, dry it off as best as you can. Blow it out with compressed air if you can. Then add some light oil onto the shaft and move it in and out. This fixed mine... for a while. Mine would studder sometimes because the diaphragm was getting caught on the shaft due to some carbon build up. It ran like a dream after I cleaned it. Also, check your hoses CAREFULLY according to a vacuum diagram. Make sure everything is 100% Yes, I know. Not exactly relative to this post but it's easily over looked. The timing chain is notorious for stretching. Take a timing light and see if the timing mark jumps around. OR, take the distributor CAP off and take a reamer bar with the appropriate socket and turn the crank shaft back and forth (not too far... going back can hurt the engine... so I am told). The rotor should move pretty much exactly with the movement of the crank shaft. If it is delayed, you probably have a timing issue. How is your idle? Is it rough or smooth? How does the truck perform while moving off in first? Does it feel like it is going to stall out on you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajpolitz Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Biggest improvment I had was replacing the injectors. No hesitation or missing. My truck idle a little rough, then bucked a bit when driving. There $99 a set from a place in FL. Won't hurt to replace the CPS too! Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjstohr Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 Thank you very much for the info. I will check the EGR as soon as possible. The snow and cold may delay that a little. The Idle is fine. Probably better that my 2000 Dakota. Take off is good, but it is shortly there after that it has problems. From what I have been reading about the EGR valve, that sounds like a good place to go next. This will be my first attempt with a timing light as everything I have ever owned has been Electronic Ignition. I have one, but never used it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjstohr Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Do you have a link for the injector place in FL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajpolitz Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Do you have a link for the injector place in FL? http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/ You can find them on Ebay too. Injectorsare about 30buck s cheeper on Ebay. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjstohr Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Thank you very much. Will be on next years wish list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 I would do the tank first. Either buy a new one or do the POR-15 thing or KBS to clean and seal it. Another option is to send your injectors to cruzin or witchunter.... They both clean and calibrate them for cheap money. www.cruzinperformance.com www.witchhunter.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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