Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 So I think my heater core is plugged bc I don't get heat well very little. Coolant is full. What else could it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Air in the system. With as much as you did the thermostat housing, and messed with that, that would be my bet. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Air in the system. With as much as you did the thermostat housing, and messed with that, that would be my bet. Rob L. True I never dd bleed air out of system. The sensors didn't wanna come out. My sensor is driver side block right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Yep. Be sure to park it facing down hill, and let it cool (very important). Pull that back sensor, and bleed the air out. No heat in a jeep is pretty uncommon. Usually it gets so hot in there you could make a baked potato on the dash. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 I'll see if I can get the senors today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoTGoD Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I'm not 100% sure, but does the 88 MJ have the same vacuum actuated heater core valve as my 90? Mine was not giving any heat last winter, and I discovered that the valve that opens for the hot coolant to flow in to the heater core was not operating properly. I ended up manually opening it and leaving it there. It gets a bit warmer in the cab in the summer, but I'll never have to worry about not getting heat when I need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Heater control valve? Is brand new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I thought that too at first, but Jake just replaced it... Rob L. DARN! Jake beat me to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Maybe no vacuum to HCV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoTGoD Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Looks like Rob's idea is best then :cheers: Possible that there is no vacuum. Can you move the HCV by hand and feel the hose to verify that hot coolant is flowing in to the heater core? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 You could try moving the valve manually... Do you get any heat? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 HCV moves easily by hand. I will fell lines when I get home after driving from school Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Lines were all hot The HCV doesnt move weather it is on ac or heat. so I should have listened Rob and just ran hoses to HC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 I bled out the system and heat was better but still gotta fix the HCV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 I'm gonna buy 97+ heater hoses should I just connect all the line together in a tee? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche09 Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Your heater core is plugged up with scale... Yet another good reason to dump the pressurized plastic bottle system. :ack: You need to flush out your heater core. I was amazed at the amount of crud that came out. When I converted to open cooling, I removed all that mess and ran 5/8 hoses direct from the water outlet to the heater core (Just like its setup in my 08 KK) and capped the vac line. Just two 5/8 rubber hoses now, and ALOT less sources of potential problems. IMO better to have coolant circulating through the heater core rather than sitting there half the year every year. Use distilled water for refill of course. Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 I got a 195 degree thermostat installing tonight and gonna try flushing heater core Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 how long should i wait after putting on T-stat housing with sealant before dirivng? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 probablt an hour or 2 but i don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 it says dries in 1 hours fully cured in 24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 you could probably drive it a bit to test it after an hour but don't take it very far for 24 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeman17 Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 well went out and started it. it was sitting for 12 hours and it leaks now I'm screwed i can't drive anywhere to get parts or anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjmanche Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 what you need to do is start it and run it YES I KNOW IT leaks but it has to get warm THEN titen it up not to much it will break. and its not the heator core its your little heater sensor on the right side inside the cab under the dash. it has little springs and when it gets to hot it reduces the amount of heat thus you have no heat when its full blast its low right . the little sensor is behind the heator fan but to take it out its inside the cab :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 and its not the heator core its your little heater sensor on the right side inside the cab under the dash. it has little springs and when it gets to hot it reduces the amount of heat thus you have no heat when its full blast its low right . the little sensor is behind the heator fan but to take it out its inside the cab :yes: :huh???: There are no sensors for the heating system inside the cab. The only thing I can think of from the way you are describing it is the resistor pack that controls the speed of the fan. There are no sensors there, and the resistors ONLY affect fan speed, they have nothing at all to do with how much heat the heater core can transfer. If the thermostat housing leaks after sitting for twelve hours, either you didn't get all the old sealant and gasket material off one of the surfaces, or the flange of the thermostat slipped out of the recess and got between the housing and the head. If that happened and you try to tighten it, you'll crack the head. Better would be to remove it, clean both surfaces, and reinstall. If you can save the gasket, reuse it if you don't have a new one. Otherwise, just use RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjmanche Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 i replaced that and mine worked great after :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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