jwdvy4 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I don't know why it is overheating. I had to get towed back from a weekend of fun because the comanche overheated to fast. I just changed the thermostat a few months ago, so I don't think that is the problem. I cleaned my radiator so I know that isn't the problem. My oil isn't milky because I changed my oil after I got back from the trip. The only thing that I can think of is my water pump, but I really don't know. But when I get done letting it idle, there is anti-freeze that comes from the seal between the head and the block, but I don't think it is my head gasket because the oil is fine. PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 You can blow the head gasket out from a coolant valley without touching any of the oil. If you can visibly see it leaking from the head gasket, then you've got a head gasket problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 is it overheating when stationary? or when on the road? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 It takes longer to overheat when it is at idle but still does. When I try to drive it, it heats up so quickly that the engine revs really high and it starts to slow down even though my foot is on the gas pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotblake Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I had my cooling system reverse flushed several years ago by a dealership, everything would be fine until it was put under a load like pulling a trailer or mountain driving. I replaced everything one piece at a time and nothing seemed to help. Finally ran out of components to replace and put in a new radiator. Fixed the problem. It happened not to long after it was flushed. My guess is that when they flushed the radiator they did a halfass job or something came dislodged later and plugged part of the radiator. Not sure this would help but I thought I would share. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 That was another thing I was thinking too. I already have to head gasket set and the head bolts so I am going to see if that is the problem. If it doesn't work then it will be the water pump and if that isn't the problem then it will be the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 You might as well replace the water pump while you have the head off. It'll save you coolant, and having to tear into the motor again. Water pumps are fairly cheap, so I would just tackle it right away. I suggest, too, getting a new one, and not a re-man. I've heard too many stories of the re-man's failing fairly quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I suggest, too, getting a new one, and not a re-man. I've heard too many stories of the re-man's failing fairly quickly. x2 I had a reman fail and leave me stranded after about 10k miles (which limited my options to what the nearest parts store had on hand which happened to be another reman :fs1: ). I still think it's the old radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Well it be more advantageous to go to an open cooling system rather than the closed on that is on the truck right now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 that's a matter of debate. there's nothing wrong with a closed system that's working well. In fact, it's better due to the higher temps you can run (higher temps are better for burning gas, but you can't go higher than the temp limit for the engine components). lots of guys tout that the open system cured their woes, but most would probably have fixed their woes when replacing the same components with new, but retaining the closed system. either or will work fine. Is there any hissing or leaking coming from your pressure bottle? (the thing that looks like an overflow bottle) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 There is everytime that it starts to overheat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Then that might be your problem. The key with a sealed system is to keep is sealed. If pressure is escaping out the pressure bottle, then the temp will rise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 so are you saying that my bottle is defective or the radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenard Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Then that might be your problem. The key with a sealed system is to keep is sealed. If pressure is escaping out the pressure bottle, then the temp will rise. :hijack: so your saying if there is a crack in the bottle(like mine) it won't be cooling proplery? anybody got one that aint cracked they wanna get rid of?? :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 is there or is there not coolant coming out from between the head and the block? also, a headgasket can fail in such a manner that the coolant does not mix with the oil, but exhaust gases are pumped into the cooling system superheating it in a manner of minutes, that's how my brother's 93 4.0 failed. the closed system bottle that came factory is pure junk, i still run a closed system and it works great, but my MOPAR bottle and cap lasted ~1 year before they needed replacement again. i swapped to a different pressure bottle and its awesome now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 there is anti-freeze coming from where the block and the head meet. where did you get your new pressure bottle from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 there is anti-freeze coming from where the block and the head meet. where did you get your new pressure bottle from? unfortunately if there is indeed anti-freeze coming out that means you do need a head gasket... is it ALOT or is it just seeping out? it may not be the initial cause of your overheating but still needs to be addressed in the future. my new bottle came out of an old volvo (i'm a volvo mechanic so i used what i had) but i have seen them go hundreds of thousands of miles without any trouble so i felt comfortable using it. some people run a metal bottle i think you can find it on quadratec? correct me somebody. but there are other better options out there as far as pressure bottles go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 It seeps out in three different spots and they seem like pretty big gaps in the gasket. I already have the gasket kit and the new head bolts, so I am going to replace them along with the water pump and see if that fixes anything. I just don't want to go buy a new radiator if that isn't the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Well changing a radiator won't fix your head gasket problem. Sine that's leaking so bad, I'm sure your radiator is fine. I wouldn't worry about the radiator until after you get the head gasket changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwdvy4 Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yea that is what I was going to do. I am just going to change the water pump just because it will already be taken apart anyway. Just so I know that that isn't the problem either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutch1 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 You have a blown head gasket ! Iam doing mine as we speak ! I had the same prob :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 you don't need to remove the water pump to do a head on a jeep if i remember correctly. just the thermostat. but if you want to it'll be accessible at that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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