87MJJeep Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Alright, so I took some sandpaper to the contacts and cleaned them up as much as I could. After I hooked them up, they would kind of work. I noticed that with the door closed, I could rotate the bezel up or down and the lights would come on. One direction is for 'doors only' and the other direction is for 'always on'. Is that right? If so, it sounds like I might have a bad ground or something. Where do the pillar lights ground at? I got mine working this afternoon. I just need to do the LED upgrade. I couldn't believe how much sanding on the contacts and that pesky wheel was required. I kept testing them for continuity before bothering to hook them back up. If your contact is flaky, very gently try to bend the tabs up a bit. Flip the switch in one direction, and bent up the "open" tab. Then flip it the other direction to bend the other one. I used a toothpick to do it. The toothpick seemed to give before I bent the metal too much. What did you sand with? I have been using a piece of sandpaper because I don't have anything else that fits into that small of a space. I can't recall the grit, but it was a very fine (800 or 1000 or 2000) wetsanding paper. It came in a 3M automotive pack I had bought to wet-sand and polish taillights. It was the first thing I saw laying around. I just cut a strip off that was about 1/2" wide and folded it to make it stiffer and not as wide (down to about 1/8" wide). I then slid it through the end of the switch with the contacts, and one at a time, positioned it between contact points and pulled it back and forth. Many times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Yeah, that's what I was afraid you'd say. I was hoping you found some magic tool to make life easy. Would it be best to use a fine grit or coarse grit? I used a coarse grit but not sure if that's the most effective way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJJeep Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Yeah, that's what I was afraid you'd say. I was hoping you found some magic tool to make life easy. Would it be best to use a fine grit or coarse grit? I used a coarse grit but not sure if that's the most effective way. Fine! Coarse will be a drag, literally! Once I realized I could pull a folded strip through the end, it was a breeze. Just not a quick one. If you have a multimeter, keep testing for continuity. Once you get continuity in both directions, file away just a little more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Then use a small dab of dielectric grease on the clean contacts or they will bugger up real quickly again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJJeep Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Then use a small dab of dielectric grease on the clean contacts or they will bugger up real quickly again. Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 Continuity ... 0 ohms between the contacts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJJeep Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Continuity ... 0 ohms between the contacts? My meter's dial has a position named "buzz.". It beeps when there's continuity between the leads. Verify the bulb filaments are good by testing them first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 Continuity ... 0 ohms between the contacts? My meter's dial has a position named "buzz.". It beeps when there's continuity between the leads. Verify the bulb filaments are good by testing them first. Hmmm, ok. I'll have to see what mine's got. I think it has something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 Continuity ... 0 ohms between the contacts? My meter's dial has a position named "buzz.". It beeps when there's continuity between the leads. Verify the bulb filaments are good by testing them first. Hmmm, ok. I'll have to see what mine's got. I think it has something similar. I picked up a set of those kick panel lights. I plugged one in and it worked with the door open. I then closed the door, and the light dimmed, but did not go out. Can this be caused by a bad ground or a bad door switch? The peg on the door switch isn't stuck or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Until yesterday (I found an owner's manual at the jy), I had no idea that you could push the lens and it would click into place for 'always on' or 'only with door'. Ok thanks for this. I have a problem where if I see a button labeled "do not push", I push it. So now my pillar lights are broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Until yesterday (I found an owner's manual at the jy), I had no idea that you could push the lens and it would click into place for 'always on' or 'only with door'. Ok thanks for this. I have a problem where if I see a button labeled "do not push", I push it. So now my pillar lights are broken. Did you push them too hard? I can get you a copy of the page that explains how the pillar lights work if you really need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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