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HELP!! Cluster replacement issues


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Does that include the voltmeter? The voltmeter can be easily removed from the cluster by three screws and manually bench checked using a 9VDC battery. The + and - terminals are clearly marked on the gauge PC board. If the needle deflects to the right on the gauge, then somehow the input voltage polarity is reversed on the cluster. I've never seen or heard of this before. :hmm:

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The gauges can't spin 180 degrees out, because they only have about a 90-degree sweep and I believe there are stop pins at both ends of the range. Please take a deep breath, slow down, and explain exactly what they are (or aren't) doing.

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Is it possible to reverse the electrical plug on the back of the panel? if so, that would surely screw things up......

 

It's possible but not probable seeing how they can only go in one way because of the plug design. If they are not in all the way, that would cause some trouble. If I remember correctly, there is a small set switch to select between 4cyl or 6cyl but that should only affect the tach. It sounds like you have had it out and reinstalled it. Did you check all the ribbon circuit on the back of it to make sure nothing was fubar? Just by your discription, it sounds like there may be a short between something. When you put it back in, did you connect both connectors in tight? They should snap in pretty snug. As Eagle said, slow down and describe what you have done and what the symptoms are. :thumbsup:

 

:cheers:

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When I did my cluster swap I experienced some of the same problems.Only difference with mine was it only happened with the fuel gauge. (It would peg full)

Problem was when I plugged in the connector on the rear of the cluster,I wasn't getting a reassuring "click"

meaning good engagement.

My fix was to clearance the bottom of the female side/cluster side of the cluster so the plug would engage properly.

Used a utility knife.

The other thing I did was to put a little more "spring" on the contacts where they engage the plug,I used a small

utility pick to do this.

Hope this helps.

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The latest

The volt meter appears to work,

temp gauge points to 7 o'clock

fuel points past full mark, approx 2-2:30,

oil pressure past 80 psi about 2-2:30.

Tach idles below 0 rpm, and does move when throttle is raised.

Have made sure that connection is good with plug. It can only go in one way.

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The latest The volt meter appears to work, temp gauge points to 7 o'clock, fuel points past full mark, approx 2-2:30, oil pressure past 80 psi about 2-2:30.

Tach idles below 0 rpm, and does move when throttle is raised.

Have made sure that connection is good with plug. It can only go in one way.

 

Your cluster has to be bad then. The PC flex foil is probably damaged and/or shorted (who knows), and how can the temp gauge be at 7 o'clock unless someone removed/reset the gauge needle? Normal travel for the volt, oil, fuel, & temp gauges is roughly 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock; the gauge needle travel is limited by pins. I've got a bunch of gaugeless cluster shells complete w. foil, but I'd strongly suggest you obtain another complete cluster suitable for your year MJ and not mess with this one anymore before serious damage occurs to the dash harness and/or the fuel sending unit. :cheers:

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I agree with Hornbrod ... who, by the way, knows a thing or three about electrical circuits. As he noted, the normal range of movement for all the small gauges is from approximately 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock. Any gauge with the needle outside of that range is seriously broken.

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