SchneiderFishing Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 So I am replacing a 1990 4.0 automatic cluster with idiot lights with a 1988 cluster with gauges. Problem is the take reads 0 until you rev the engine and all the gagues (temp., oil, etc.) are reading backwards. Ideas, suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Did you pull the cluster from the donor vehicle yourself? I know the gas guage can read backwards if the cluster isn't correct for the truck... Also, have you replaced the oil and temp switches with sensors? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 oil and temp sensors have been replaced. I didn't pull the part myself but I got it from sknut88 her on the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 When you say backwards, do they peg down or just seem off? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 They peg down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Does that include the voltmeter? The voltmeter can be easily removed from the cluster by three screws and manually bench checked using a 9VDC battery. The + and - terminals are clearly marked on the gauge PC board. If the needle deflects to the right on the gauge, then somehow the input voltage polarity is reversed on the cluster. I've never seen or heard of this before. :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Update on cluster. Installed late yesterday. Temp gauge, fuel gauge, oil pressure, batt. charge gauge, and tach. all do not properly function. They energize with ignition, but spin 180 deg. out. Tach needle does move, but shows idle at <0 rpm. ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 The gauges can't spin 180 degrees out, because they only have about a 90-degree sweep and I believe there are stop pins at both ends of the range. Please take a deep breath, slow down, and explain exactly what they are (or aren't) doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Is it possible to reverse the electrical plug on the back of the panel? if so, that would surely screw things up...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Is it possible to reverse the electrical plug on the back of the panel? if so, that would surely screw things up...... It's possible but not probable seeing how they can only go in one way because of the plug design. If they are not in all the way, that would cause some trouble. If I remember correctly, there is a small set switch to select between 4cyl or 6cyl but that should only affect the tach. It sounds like you have had it out and reinstalled it. Did you check all the ribbon circuit on the back of it to make sure nothing was fubar? Just by your discription, it sounds like there may be a short between something. When you put it back in, did you connect both connectors in tight? They should snap in pretty snug. As Eagle said, slow down and describe what you have done and what the symptoms are. :thumbsup: :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 When I did my cluster swap I experienced some of the same problems.Only difference with mine was it only happened with the fuel gauge. (It would peg full) Problem was when I plugged in the connector on the rear of the cluster,I wasn't getting a reassuring "click" meaning good engagement. My fix was to clearance the bottom of the female side/cluster side of the cluster so the plug would engage properly. Used a utility knife. The other thing I did was to put a little more "spring" on the contacts where they engage the plug,I used a small utility pick to do this. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 The latest The volt meter appears to work, temp gauge points to 7 o'clock fuel points past full mark, approx 2-2:30, oil pressure past 80 psi about 2-2:30. Tach idles below 0 rpm, and does move when throttle is raised. Have made sure that connection is good with plug. It can only go in one way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 The latest The volt meter appears to work, temp gauge points to 7 o'clock, fuel points past full mark, approx 2-2:30, oil pressure past 80 psi about 2-2:30. Tach idles below 0 rpm, and does move when throttle is raised. Have made sure that connection is good with plug. It can only go in one way. Your cluster has to be bad then. The PC flex foil is probably damaged and/or shorted (who knows), and how can the temp gauge be at 7 o'clock unless someone removed/reset the gauge needle? Normal travel for the volt, oil, fuel, & temp gauges is roughly 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock; the gauge needle travel is limited by pins. I've got a bunch of gaugeless cluster shells complete w. foil, but I'd strongly suggest you obtain another complete cluster suitable for your year MJ and not mess with this one anymore before serious damage occurs to the dash harness and/or the fuel sending unit. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Any consenting or desenting opinions out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 I agree with Hornbrod ... who, by the way, knows a thing or three about electrical circuits. As he noted, the normal range of movement for all the small gauges is from approximately 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock. Any gauge with the needle outside of that range is seriously broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 aghhhh!!!!! Money down the drain. And I bought it off a guy on this site!! CARP! :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 With the cluster out of the vehicle there are ways to test each gauge by itself, and then you can use a multi-meter to test the printed circuit between the connector and the gauge mounting location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchneiderFishing Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Just took a relook at this new cluster. There are no stop pins for any of the indicator needles. I can spin all of them 360 deg. ?? I don't think this is right. Maybe Don is right in thinking that this cluster is no good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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