grandpabear Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 I am taking out the brake booster on a 95' XJ to use in my 87' MJ, I have everything disconnected except where the booster rod meets the brake pedal, How do you get the pin and clip thingy off? thanks in advance for your help. Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 The clip has an open side, and it slides down over the post on the pedal arm. Spin the clip around until you can see the open side and pry upward with a small screwdriver while at the same time, with your third hand, pulling the clip up off the post. Beware, that little clip will shoot off the post at light speed if you let it, and depending on it's trajectory when it launches you may or may not ever see it again :D BTW, I still have that tailgate handle.......my wife and I are coming up to J-town for family reunions in early August down at Windber Rec. I'll bring it with me and we can meet up if you're around :cheers: Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 I just pulled a new booster from a 99 and put into my 88 without swapping the push rods. You'll want to swap the push rods to make this whole process easier in the end. Plus, your brake pedal won't be 2" higher than normal. :hijack: What kind of places can swap the push rods out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandpabear Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 thanks for the secret. I have it installed, no problems with the rod length, I do have another question, my old proportioning valve had 4 ports on it, the one from the 95' has 3, but where the 4th one goes on the valve on the 95' there is a plug. Is it safe to say that I can take out that plug and use the newer valve? they are identical in every way except the plug that makes the newer one 3 ports instead of 4. I swapped it out master cylinder and booster as one unit and if the plug can be removed and I use it for the 4th line, then I have no need to mess with the brake lines, they all line up real close, I do have to fashion a new wiper bottle, because I need the airbox to use with the snorkel, so far it has been an easy upgrade. Jeff, which weekend, I have a family reunion on the 8th, I will be close by all month as our club is getting ready for a trail cutting/pig roast/ wheel what we cut weekend August 29th, on our clubs personal property. so we are busy marking out trails to be cut. check out what we have going on in the pig roast info thread on our website, maybe you can make it up then www.bigrubbers4x4.org Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 thanks for the secret. I have it installed, no problems with the rod length, I do have another question, my old proportioning valve had 4 ports on it, the one from the 95' has 3, but where the 4th one goes on the valve on the 95' there is a plug. Is it safe to say that I can take out that plug and use the newer valve? they are identical in every way except the plug that makes the newer one 3 ports instead of 4. I swapped it out master cylinder and booster as one unit and if the plug can be removed and I use it for the 4th line, then I have no need to mess with the brake lines, they all line up real close, I do have to fashion a new wiper bottle, because I need the airbox to use with the snorkel, so far it has been an easy upgrade. What you are trying to replace is not a prop valve. Your prop valve is actually in the back of the truck and has a rod connected to your rear axle. In order for you to install the prop valve from an XJ, you must remove/bypass the MJ prop valve in the rear. Failure to do so can rusult in serious compromises in braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandpabear Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 thank you, that is indeed good to know. question: if I am upgrading, do I need to swap out the prop. valve to a xj? or will the mj one be fine with the master/booster of a 95'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 thank you, that is indeed good to know. question: if I am upgrading, do I need to swap out the prop. valve to a xj? or will the mj one be fine with the master/booster of a 95'? A 95 master and booster (I don't beleive) will have a preference between the two. I don't use my MJ for utility purposes (I have a SuperDuty for that) so I never load mine up other than for the trail. Because of this, I chose to remove the MJ rear prop valve set up and use an XJ standard prop valve. I chose one of the lines going to the back and used it and the other one lays there not used. I had it similar in my buggy and it worked well with 42s so I figured it would be 'ok' in an MJ with 36s. I have seen some people mention to leave the MJ booster in and attached to the diff cover and I have heard of others disconnecting it from the diff cover and 'zip-tying' the adjuster rod up higher (as if the truck was loaded). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandpabear Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 thanks again, I run 35s' and will have a small load in the back with my rack, 2 hi-lifts, co2 tank, spare, and the boonie box. the punkins have 4:56 cogs and locked in the rear. thanks, I'm looking forward to better braking, next upgrade will be the fuel injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandpabear Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 I don't have the gizmo on my diff. cover. I had swapped in a different set of axles. I got the axles from an XJ that already had the gearing and locker in the rear and a posi-lok in the front one, a guy just built them and decided to use a 60 and a 44, so I paid 350 for the pair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 I just pulled a new booster from a 99 and put into my 88 without swapping the push rods. You'll want to swap the push rods to make this whole process easier in the end. Plus, your brake pedal won't be 2" higher than normal. :hijack: What kind of places can swap the push rods out? My 88' MJ's pedal is pretty high, 2001 XJ MC/booster & rod (also used the XJ prop valve & ditched the MJ adjustable). I drilled a new hole in the MJ brake pedal arm for the 01' arm to bolt to (and did some other work to use a Ford style brake light switch). Firm, but high pedal, not really the best setup ever. :hmm: Did you do the same thing, or ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 I kept the MJ brake pedal assy, but only swapped over the booster and master. On the 99 booster, we drilled the hole out a tad larger, and ground a flat spot on the end to keep the 88 switch. My pedal is stupidly high. I can take a picture if you want. I definitely plan on getting the rods switched over because having the pedal so high is a safety concern for me. Just not sure where to go locally to get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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