Oizarod115 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 ive had cooling issues for a while now and i just got paid and finally have the money to deal with said issues. however. i don't know if my radiator is acutally the culprit, but ive done: fan clutch, waterpump, turtle, and cap. and my lower rad hose has the spring. and thermostat is a 160 right now cause thats what we had. (not by choice, i know 185 is the best) so the only thing left is radiator, and clogged passages. i got a quote from 800 radiator for a 3-row modine for 157~ to my door tomarow morning do it? or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORCA Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 DO it! oh and you started a new thread...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 that thread was someone elses, basically same though, didnt wanna jack it (and i wanted quick answers cause idk how much longer i can wait and still get it tomarrow first thing) :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richfactor Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 by turtle and cap I assume you mean coolant resevoir? sorry if I'm wrong just never heard of turtle. I know my problem was just the resevoir and cap, which was pretty inexpensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 i got a quote from 800 radiator for a 3-row modine for 157~ to my door tomarow morning. Is that an all aluminum? Or aliminum with palstic tanks? Or copper with brass tanks? Just curious. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 19, 2006 Author Share Posted August 19, 2006 yeah i refer to the tank as the turtle so you're right, that was A problem...big ole crack. and I'm not sure what exactly it is but i do know that i ordered it at 4:30 yesterday and free shipping it was on my doorstep thism mornin at 10:30 :eek: its all painted so I'm not exactly sure what metals and such. its a modine 3-row Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 not sure whats in the modine radiator but my boss at the garage i work at said they were the good ones. i got mine for $100 though :brows: I'm probably putting it in this week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Modine is about the best, I have a two core modine in mine . I went with the two core becase it carrys the same volume of water as the three core and won't stop up as easily. Make sure if your converting to open sys that you replace the heater block off /bypass valve and FLUSH THE SNOT!!!! out of the heater core and block, most of the trash that will clog a rad is just waiting in there to screw your cooling sys up again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Very true! I'd highly recommend flushing out the heater core regardless of what system you go with. And make sure you flush water throw both the in and out tubes to really get it cleaned out. When you go to fill the system back up, a trick others have used to get all the bubbles out of the head is to raise the back of the truck up and unscrew the temp sensor at the back of the head to let the air escape. Do this while the truck is running, but don't let the sensor unscrew all the way or you will be showered with coolant. And to be on the safe side, break the sensor free of it's 15 year old "glue" before you start the engine, have someone ELSE be the one to start the engine so they can shut it off right away if there's a problem, make sure the truck is COOL when you do all this (cause the only thing worse than being showered with coolant is being showered with 210* coolant), and make sure you're wearing safety glasses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 I got away with out haveing to purge the air through the temp sender when I swapped to open , I filled the rad and squeezed the hoses as I went. As long as the water in the rad moves and does not bubble when you squeeze the hoses all the air is just about gone. I also converted the old pressure bottle into an overflow bottle , the first time I cranked up the MJ I let it run till it opened the tstat and then I shut the heep off. since the overflow bottle was damn near full , as the jeep cooled it drew in enought coolant to top it off perfectly . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 the easiest way to burp the system is to put two holes in the thermostat for the air to pass through as you fill up the syste, two small holes at 12 and 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 the easiest way to burp the system is to put two holes in the thermostat for the air to pass through as you fill up the syste,two small holes at 12 and 6. Funny you should say that ( and very very true ) The factory 4.0 and 2.5 tstats that these engines came with had a weep hole in them for just that reason. I would almost bet if you took your paycheck ;) and went to chrysler to buy a factory tstat it would probably have that weep hole in it as well. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 not converting to open, and don't have a temp sensor at the back of the head ;) (yeah, thats a PITA) ive never had much of a problem with burping the coolant. usually just run and fill and run and fill til it stops takin fluid... can't really explain my process but it works alright so far :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 and don't have a temp sensor at the back of the head ;) Huh? :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 and don't have a temp sensor at the back of the head ;) Huh? :hmm: Past 96 , the H.O motors don't have a temp sender in the back of the head . On the newer 4.0 and 2.5's they use the Ecu temp sensor to read out the engine temp , that sensor is the one in the thermostat houseing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Got it! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 WOOOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO got the modine 3-core unit in today took about 1 1/2 hours start to finish (with time for my brother to argue with his gf, and me to run up and down 3 flights of stairs to look at jeepin.com and or get water/drinks) truck runs at 185-210!! i drove 90 miles at 65-75mph up and down hills and never pushed past 190 easssiest part i have ever changed. definately pulling it out next time i do a waterpump. going to cut the old unit open and see the damage... the damage to the outside fins is extensive..lots of caved in places and damaged fins. oh and modine made the OEM a/c condensor on my heep, so I'm guessin its good quality stuff. Got it! :thumbsup: yeah, i usually have fill it all sorts of weird ways until I'm sure it won't accept anymore fluid then drive it for a day and add as needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabz Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Don't ya just love it when a plan comes together :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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