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Hello and good afternoon all. I am posting this question about what kind of oil to use. I have a 92 Comanche 4.0 with 98k for miles. I have ran some slick 50 through it and it helped a bit. My engine runs smooth as all get out, except for some valve clatter---expected but very minimal. Anyway, I just bought some valvoline high mileage syn blend 10w30. I use to use this stuff in my old 93 Wrangler (straight six). I have heard about Amsoil and about every other oil recommendation out there. Just want to keep is simple and running good. This truck has been great after all the cobwebs were worked out. I live in Illinois (weather sucks pretty much all the time---cold as hell in the winter, hot as swamp butt in the summer, and everything else in between). Just looking to keep this beast running good. I change my oil every 3k or less depending on my driving. I keep an eye on it regularly. Like I said, just want to take the little clatter out and keep it moving. Thanks

 

Conan

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I'll let the others debate the oil particulars and just say that the best thing I did with my 88 was to start changing the oil every 2k. :D Regular ol' dino oil too. I had synthetic in it earlier and she was even happier with fresh oil all the time. Of course, with my 88 you could feel the difference after 2k miles. I literally lost hp as time went on and on each oil change it was like getting a new truck. :D

 

You do get something for your money with filters though, so I recommend the more expensive ones. Oh, and don't use Fram filters.

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Just to quiet it down I would use some Lucas oil stabilizer. But to really clean the engine and do it well I would use a product called AutoRx. It really does work and I have used it for over 3 years on all different types of vehicles.

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I did the opposite of Pete. I started with an 88 Cherokee 4.0L. Around 175,000 miles or so I began to notice that the oil pressure on the highway was lower than it was when new. I had always used Pennzoil 10W40 conventional oil, and I always changed the oil at 2500 mile intervals.

 

At the time, my brother was service manager at a BMW dealership. He mentioned one day that BMWs come through with synthetic oil, and that the factory recommends a 15,000 mile (that's not a typo) change interval. We discussed my isue, and I decided I could switch to full synthetic, and by doubling the change interval it wouldn't cost much more overall than changing the dino oil at 2500 mil intervals.

 

I switched to Mobil-1 15W50 and my highway pil pressure came most of the way back up to where it should be. But we get some cold nights here in winter. Then a friend who is a shop forman at a VW dealer happened to mention that VW uses (or did then) Castrol synthetic as the factory oil. And Castrol offers a 5W50 formulation. So I changed to that, and that's what I run in the Cherokee -- which is now at 282,000 miles.

 

In the 88 Comanche, which only has about 130,000 miles on it and has no oil pressure issues, I also run Castrol full synthetic, but in 10W40.

 

Don't waste your money on synthetic blend. It's a ripoff. Like the new thing with anti-freeze: You can buy a gallon of anti-freeze for $6, or you can buy a gallon of pre-mixed 50/50 coolant for $6. A gallon of distilled water at Wal-Mart is 75 cents. You do the math.

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If this helps, at Public Works in Northern Il, we run full synthetic 5W-40 in everything. Dump trucks, squad cars, lawnmowers... And do an oil analysis on everything. We do 9,000 mile intervals, and thats with idling the pi$$ out of everything. Its impressive, but the oil analysis doesn't lie.

 

Rob L.

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Don't waste your money on synthetic blend. It's a ripoff. Like the new thing with anti-freeze: You can buy a gallon of anti-freeze for $6, or you can buy a gallon of pre-mixed 50/50 coolant for $6. A gallon of distilled water at Wal-Mart is 75 cents. You do the math.

 

Good point. It's just like the dollar store...You can buy four AA batteries for a $1... or you can buy two AA batteries for $1. :rotf:

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