How to POR15 the Bed Inner Fender Wells | The rust shelf

[87Warrior]

I recently pick up a rust free long bed (thanks 'krochus') 8) and want to keep it that way. Before I haul off and get it painted, I figure I should do something to PREVENT the rust that will form over time. POR 15 will be my product of choice.

 

What steps and procedures should I take to apply the POR 15 to the 'rust shelf' area? I have Marine Clean, Metal Ready, POR15, and Top Coat products available to use. Having never used these products, I am looking for advice on how to prep the surface and what products to apply to guarantee rust prevention.

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions!

[Pete M]

That's a good question. I'm not sure how to get enough access to that shelf to do POR-15 properly. :dunno:

[jbhill]

they sell long metal rods with foam spheres on the end just for this application :banana:

[87Warrior]

they sell long metal rods with foam spheres on the end just for this application :banana:

Like sponge painting on a long stick? Would I find these at Walmart, auto store, or a Sherwin-Williams? Since the bed is not attached to the truck, getting up there on the shelf should be easier than if it was bolted to the truck.

 

What sort of prep work, besides a good scrub down would be recommended for this?

[jbhill]

as long as its dirt/scale free, POR-15 will stick. i know por 15 sells em, hobby stores might to.

 

http://www.por15.com/DAUBER-KIT/productinfo/DK/

 

basically a pipe cleaner with a big end.

[Pete M]

Doesn't a POR kit come with the cleaning agents?

[FxRacing282]

ive used P.O.R. 15 before, and 90% of the process is prep. do a good job on the marine clean, if you have any doubts, do it again. after this has dried and looks to be free of any oil or grease or any petroleum based products, or anything for that matter, spray the metal ready on there. don't be afraid to spray it as it puts a zinc coating ( i think its zinc). after about a half hour you will needs to get it off with water. spray spray spray the water on there, you don't want any leftover under the paint or it won't stick as well. once this is dry, wait another few hours to be 110% its dry. apply the first coat on and try not to get runs, obviously. but don't be shy to put it on. stuff it in every crack you see and it fills in pits from rust very well so lay it down. after about 4 hours, or the finger drag test(drag your finger across (clean and dry finger) it should feel tacky but dry. if you get a few pieces of black on your finger its ready for the next coat. make sure to get EVERY spot because when its dried you will see where you missed. oh, get some brake parts cleaner, it will get the P.O.R. 15 off your hands.

good luck :thumbsup:

[87Warrior]

as long as its dirt/scale free, POR-15 will stick. i know por 15 sells em, hobby stores might to.

http://www.por15.com/DAUBER-KIT/productinfo/DK/

basically a pipe cleaner with a big end.

Awesome, thanks for the link. Any idea how big those things are?

 

Doesn't a POR kit come with the cleaning agents?

Marine Clean and Metal Ready are the two cleaning/prep agents I have. Although by reading the instructions, I began thinking they were only needed for a bare metal application, thus confusing myself.

 

ive used P.O.R. 15 before, and 90% of the process is prep. do a good job on the marine clean, if you have any doubts, do it again. after this has dried and looks to be free of any oil or grease or any petroleum based products, or anything for that matter, spray the metal ready on there. don't be afraid to spray it as it puts a zinc coating ( i think its zinc).

I assume the inner fender wells of the MJ bed are painted. Are you recommending putting the marine clean and metal ready over the paint that may still be there? Should I sand or wire wheel it?

[DirtyComanche]

I'd remove all the paint that is on there... POR wasn't ment to go on anything that was painted prior.

 

I like aircraft stripper if you have enough space to do it outside, and don't mind working with it. It's slow, but doesn't take much effort. Bursh on, come back later, brush more on or scrap a bit and brush more on, come back later and repeat or rinse off. It'll remove all paint, and only the paint. Kinda nasty stuff, but the modern stuff is 100% bio-degradable/neutralized in water (just have to catch the paint it removed) and isn't overly toxic (wear gloves, it removes skin pretty decently, and safety glasses are a good idea, otherwise it's not bad).

[flint54]

Suggest putting the bed in it's side, and tilted in 10-15 degrees or so. This should permit you to reach nearly all the way into the lower area (one side at a time). Suggested first step is visual evaluation with light and mirror to determine current condition. You may find the need to wire brush the dirt, light rust, etc first. The Marine clean should dissolve the light primer on those surfaces, and it requires thorough rinsing afterward. Lot's of rinsing! If you really have no rust, I think the metal prep is not needed, but your choice. Suggest hair drier to thoroughly dry out the area before coating. The foam ball on a stick should take care of the tight pinch seam, and a small trim roller on a stick should permit you to reach the acreage. Good Luck!