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brake issues


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so inspection time is coming up and i needed to do the front brakes and figured while doing that might as well get rid of the rear propvalve and install the new booster/mastercyl ive had sitting in a box in my closet for over a year.

i ended up doing front pads, calipers, and rotors new lines every where except passenger front and put in the new booster/master combo. i can not get fluid to the rear end. ive gravity bled for probably 8 hours and also bled the normal way for much longer than ive ever had to in the past. i realize that theres alot of air in the new line that runs front to back but its getting ridiculous. i never had any real braking power in the rear and always attributed this to the rear prop valve. now I'm puzzled as to whats actually going on.

 

also maybe two years ago i replaced rear wheel cyls drums shoes and hardware. i was able to bleed the wheel cylinders and had good fluid coming out then but still never had them actually function.

 

any tips, tricks, or suggestions? TIA,

Tim

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So you now have a single brake line from the rear flex hose direct to the front metering block below the master cylinder? Are you using the MJ metering block, or an XJ or ZJ proportioning valve? If you're using the MJ metering block, which port did you run the rear line from? "Nose," or bottom?

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The nose outlet is the one that runs the rear brakes. The one he used is actuated only if the front brakes fail. He needs to reroute the hard line to the "nose" of the metering block.

 

Just like in Pete's photo. (Great minds think .... and work ... alike.)

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^^^ Yeah -- THAT photo.

 

Just like in Pete's photo. (Great minds think .... and work ... alike.)

Notice how the line from the "nose" on Pete's loops up and back and goes directly to a coupling -- and the line beyond the coupling looks suspiciously like it might once have gone to that bottom outlet that's now plugged.

 

Don't be too hard on yourself. It's easy to get confused, because on the XJ front proportioning valve there is no "nose" outlet, and that line would go to where you ran it. Making it up like Pete's fix would make it easy to convert to an XJ proportioning valve down the road.

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