Jump to content

H4 Headlight conv wiring questions


Recommended Posts

So I installed the IPF lenses w/the the IPF Fatboys that are 60/80w...

I called ARB/IPF and I was advised to order the M002 wire loom... I only got about 1.5hrs in daylight with it today and I'm wondering if it's really necessary...

 

The way the loom was set up by the previous owner this job looks like it’s gonna be time consuming! But something tells me “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”… or “how many ad-a-boys cancel 1 oh $#!&!”

 

The wire gauge to the headlights only looks about 1 or 2 awg better.... so I’m weighing that in this situation…

I hear the headlight grounding is the important part…

 

Since I didn’t open the ARB loom kit and I want to add some other external lights should I send the wire loom kit back? (Apply the credit towards some IPF or PIAA external lights)

 

Am I asking for trouble? Any experience with this type set up? Any cautionary tales?

 

I tried to search this topic and couldn’t find anything other than other people have done this.

 

Any and all input w/b appreciated fellow Comanche-ists.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much was the loom kit? I just had to replace a right side headlight connector on my 87 due to worn terminals. I bought a splice in connector from NAPA for 7 or 8 bucks. It had what looked to be about 12 gage wires in it. The factory wires I spliced to were extremely small. Smaller than 14 but didn't seem as small as 16. Metric wire? I think upgradeing the wires and connectors would be a good thing. If you have any electrical aptitude, buy a couple connectors from NAPA, a couple of relays and some wire and build your own. You could get the upgrade for 20 to 30 bucks in parts. Just be sure to solder and shrink wrap everything.

I know I know, there have been major knock down drag outs over this. Just my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Str8,

 

I just built a wiring harness for my MJ. I have included all the links for the write-ups and to a few aftermarket options on page 12 of my Build-up viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8051&start=165

Here is the link I worked off of -> http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=57.

Mine was closer to $80 to make, but you could do it cheaper with using single colored wire and shopping around. I went over board :brows:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much was the loom kit?
Str8,

 

I just built a wiring harness for my MJ. I have included all the links for the write-ups and to a few aftermarket options on page 12 of my Build-up viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8051&start=165

Here is the link I worked off of -> http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=57.

Mine was closer to $80 to make, but you could do it cheaper with using single colored wire and shopping around. I went over board :brows:

 

It was $100 from ARB... unfortunately my printer is down right now...

 

I will have to try and get it working so I can bring the print out w/me...

 

but after reviewing your thread, http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=57 thread, and this thread http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm I think I'm ready to try it again today...

 

hopefully I will get more daylight in today!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Str8,

 

I just built a wiring harness for my MJ.

 

I take it the diff between your loom and the ARB one, aside from the fact that you built yours (which in my book is the better way of doing things), is that the ARB has one relay for each lamp/bulb...

 

the part that is still sort of confusing to me is that why not use the Factory relays?... this method seems to just add relays on top of relays... I take it the new relays are rated better etc... I guess it w/b overly complicated to trace/rip out the old factory set up and this is easier... am I answering my own???s...

 

I guess I will get it better when I can get under the hood again... if I'm lucky the next time I log one this w/b a done dealio... once again I have about 1.5 hrs of daylight to work with...

 

Anyway thanks for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take it the diff between your loom and the ARB one, aside from the fact that you built yours (which in my book is the better way of doing things), is that the ARB has one relay for each lamp/bulb...

 

The one I built also has a relay for each head lamp. It just may look like one relay, but there is two there :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a schematic I penciled up on using 2 relays to power up 80/100 watt H4's. It leaves in place (hanging around) the original wiring in case you want to revert to it. I can email it to anyone who thinks they can down size it to put it in the DIY or where-ever. I can't do it. no smarts. But anyhow it worked great for me and put power directly from the alternator to the lights with no splicing necessary anywhere along the way. Easy to do and not expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a schematic I penciled up on using 2 relays to power up 80/100 watt H4's. It leaves in place (hanging around) the original wiring in case you want to revert to it. I can email it to anyone who thinks they can down size it to put it in the DIY or where-ever. I can't do it. no smarts. But anyhow it worked great for me and put power directly from the alternator to the lights with no splicing necessary anywhere along the way. Easy to do and not expensive.

Just curious - why did you wire it to the alternator and not the battery?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the part that is still sort of confusing to me is that why not use the Factory relays?... this method seems to just add relays on top of relays... I take it the new relays are rated better etc... I guess it w/b overly complicated to trace/rip out the old factory set up and this is easier... am I answering my own???s...

I believe he is asking about headlights, not fog lights or driving lights. The factory headlights do not use any relays. The circuit is protected by a circuit breaker built into the headlight switch, and the heavier load of high-wattage halogens will burn that out pretty quickly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

drahcir-495-- - -

 

The reason was to eliminate a couple of splices which cause voltage loss and tentative trouble spots. Less splices means more power at lights and less soldering. I also used relays for each circuit with dual hot 87 pins so I could run wire directly to the light pins from the relays with no need to splice wires to get power from one light to the other. There are no splices in this system. And no power goes through the headlight switch to the lights, it only trips the relays now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah the ARB mod just adds extra relays directly to the headlights (at a more suitable AWG if I have my facts strait) and like the last post said... you can undo it this way...

 

well I got the thing in w/only an hour and a half of day light and a trip to a car wash!...

 

redid all of the turn signals/side markers/back up bulbs also (just new lamps no new wire)...

 

I will have to post a pic later... I managed to stop by where I ordered the new lamps and these w/b coming next week...

 

 

 

96478-md.jpg

 

and eventually I want to add these dual beams...

piaa525db.jpg

 

but I may put that on hold if daylight savings time get here first

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...