quick acceleration.. lose of power

[tkgibbs27]

when i am driving around, or when i was, when i would accelerate fast up to three thousand rpms i would get this lose of power, all the lights would flicker and i would get this jerking feeling from my truck like it can't go. after i let off the gas pedal it resumes it self to driving a long with no other problems.

 

my assumption would be that it's a fuel problem, because it didn't start doing that until after i got it running when the pump went out.

 

does the ballast resistor have anything to do with it? i haven't replaced it yet, i am still running a wire with a fuse into the cab hooked to a switch and spliced into the power wire to the pump.

 

i just put in new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, didn't fix it. but hopefully i will get better gas mileage now, all the old stuff was looking pretty dirty.

[jtdesigns]

I think the flux capacitor needs charging.. :idea:

 

 

 

 

 

 

:rotfl2:

 

Hows your plug wires look?

[tkgibbs27]

corroded and rusty. i was meaning the insides of wire caps, not the exterior.

[mvusse]

The fuel pump would not make the lights flicker. Since the light flicker it would probably electrical, somewhere in the ignition system. How is it driving with the brights on and the heater full blast? If not for the flickering lights I would have agreed with fuel delivery as bucking is usually a tell tale sign.

[tkgibbs27]

it drives fine with both on. if there is a change it isn't large enough for me to notice.

[tkgibbs27]

bump

 

gotta get this figured out i am moving to new mexico this jan.

[Randy in Maine]

Invest in some good ignition wires if yours are el-bunko.

 

My '90 4.0L is all done at about 2500 RPMs powerwise. I think I had it up to 3000 a couple of times entering the highway in front of a semi, but it likes the number 2500. It turns about 2000 at 65 MPH.

[SoloCamo]

Invest in some good ignition wires if yours are el-bunko.

 

My '90 4.0L is all done at about 2500 RPMs powerwise. I think I had it up to 3000 a couple of times entering the highway in front of a semi, but it likes the number 2500. It turns about 2000 at 65 MPH.

 

Because peak torque is about 2400rpms, so 2000-2500rpms is excellent to be around and feels the nicest.

 

The renix motors are not meant to rev, they make all the power down low, and will accelerate better if you keep the rpms under 3000 as well. (Of course I'm not talking 0-60 runs here, but around town)

 

I believe the 91-95 HO made peak torque at 4,000rpm then the 96+ dropped back down to around 3000rpm IIRC.

 

The only downside, at least to me is that it's extremely easy to spin from a stop when you don't mean to with such a low peak torque rpm. But it does make it extremely fun, especially when merging on to a road and you aren't going anywhere trying to feather the peddle for traction :rotfl2:

[mvusse]

My F100 had that problem. Hit the gas to get up to speed, let off to get traction back, a bit more to get up to speed, let off to get traction back. A huge PIA especially if it was raining.

[Ed in North Ga.]

when i am driving around, or when i was, when i would accelerate fast up to three thousand rpms i would get this lose of power, all the lights would flicker and i would get this jerking feeling from my truck like it can't go. after i let off the gas pedal it resumes it self to driving a long with no other problems.

 

my assumption would be that it's a fuel problem, because it didn't start doing that until after i got it running when the pump went out.

 

does the ballast resistor have anything to do with it? i haven't replaced it yet, i am still running a wire with a fuse into the cab hooked to a switch and spliced into the power wire to the pump.

 

i just put in new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, didn't fix it. but hopefully i will get better gas mileage now, all the old stuff was looking pretty dirty.

 

the ballast resistor is an easy check- if its oem, pop it out and look- the resistor is open for the eyes to see- if its a sealed typr, run an ohms meter across it per whatever the specs are for it(imprinted on the ceramic case/outside)

it "almost" sounds like a rev limiter problem(which we don't have), but if the lights flicker, I`d suspect somethings loose-- check the underhood ignition box-see if the leads are tight above the fuseable links. Check the positive at the starter, the alternator, and the battery post- anything that would come a hair loose if there was sudden movement on a power wire that would cause a spark-

I`d always assumed the ballast resistor is used on startup - have to look into it again.

[Pete M]

Ballast resistor is bypassed upon start-up so the pump gets full power. :thumbsup:

[tkgibbs27]

well i bought a new one, i am pretty sure my other one was bad by the fact that the center of it was black, and then i broke it. i plugged the new one in and then thought i would test the wires to see if any current was flowing, but there was nothing. so i left it unplugged. then this morning i plugged the wires back in and the wire started smoking, so i don't know what is going on. :mad: