95 H.O. convert. brake lights...

[JeepcoMJ]

so what is it that I have to do for the brake light now?

 

I teed the existing xj brake wire into both directional wires, and the result is that with hazards or either directional engaged, both tail lights flash. when stepping on the brakes it stops blinking all-together. the front turn signals still work as they should.

[troy6187]

tie the brake light wire into the white wire in the turn signal switch plug. my brake light wire is white with a tan stripe. if you look at the plug for the turn switch you will see that it has ten wires coming out of the column and only 9 leading away from the column. i used a wire tap to hook mine up or you could try to add the pin to the plug.

[JeepcoMJ]

tie the brake light wire into the white wire in the turn signal switch plug. my brake light wire is white with a tan stripe. if you look at the plug for the turn switch you will see that it has ten wires coming out of the column and only 9 leading away from the column. i used a wire tap to hook mine up or you could try to add the pin to the plug.

 

dilemma...I have a 95 column, and the turn signal plug is quite different. hmm.

[troy6187]

is there an extra wire that is not used maybe?

[JeepcoMJ]

is there an extra wire that is not used maybe?

 

I'm honestly not even sure...the column and connectors are nowhere near being interchangeable.

 

 

anyways, you're basically saying to tie the brake light wire into the turn signal switch, because when stepping on the brake it will then engage both right and left lights while not allowing the current to back-flow across connections.

[troy6187]

tying the brake lights into the turn switch is the only way to stop the brake lights from overriding the turn signals. if you look at the comanche harness and a similar xj one you will c that the mj uses all ten pins and the xj only uses 9. being as you have the chrysler column I'm not sure how it would work. that column was never used in a mj or waggy. take a look at the plugs and count wire on both sides. if there is one extra coming out of the column that stops at the plug that should be what you need to tie the brake light wire into.

[JeepcoMJ]

tying the brake lights into the turn switch is the only way to stop the brake lights from overriding the turn signals. if you look at the comanche harness and a similar xj one you will c that the mj uses all ten pins and the xj only uses 9. being as you have the chrysler column I'm not sure how it would work. that column was never used in a mj or waggy. take a look at the plugs and count wire on both sides. if there is one extra coming out of the column that stops at the plug that should be what you need to tie the brake light wire into.

 

 

thanks a TON.

 

the connector in question has 19 wires coming out of it. it is 3 set in three column.

the left hand column has 9 wires and leaves the lower two pins in the switch open.

the center column has 6 wires with 7 pins from the column.

the right hand column has 4 wires connecting to the larger pins, with 7 pins total and the lower three (the smaller pins) being open.

 

The pin I need to connect to is the center column open wire, which is 4th from the top, 4th from the bottom, and directly below the screw which secures it to the switch. Thanks for explaining how I needed to connect it Troy...now I understand.

[troy6187]

any time man. this problem drove me bat$#!& for 2 weeks bfore chico told me how to fix it. of course the wiring diagrams i have now would have been very handy then! letme know if it works out for ya

[JeepcoMJ]

any time man. this problem drove me $#!+ for 2 weeks bfore chico told me how to fix it. of course the wiring diagrams i have now would have been very handy then! letme know if it works out for ya

 

 

it did.

 

i used to have alldata so wiring issues were easy...but without it it sucks. i did everything today with a test light :ack: . i didnt connect the reverse lights as those will be on a switch.

[Eagle]

that confirms that i need to buy a newer sending unit to have an accurate gauge. switching the wires makes it swing the correct way but resistance differences make it float. 75+ miles after it hits empty

 

The fuel gauge inaccuracy is due to the difference in the resistance value of the fuel gauge sender potentiometer. This can be corrected by adding a resistor in series in the output to add resistance, or adding resistance in parallel across the pot to lower the resistance. I posted the two pot values some time ago here, but can't seem to find them now. :eek:

There isn't a huge difference in the resistance. The Renix sender has a range of 0 to 88 ohms. The HO sender has a range of 105 to 0 ohms. The gross difference is 17 ohms, but if you add a resistor of that value to correct the high end of the scale, the other end will be off by 17 ohms. If I were doing it, I think I'd use about an 8-ohm resister, with the hope of getting better accuracy through the mid-range of the scale and accepting some inaccuracy on both ends.

 

Or maybe find a potentiometer in that range so you can dial it in so the gauge works accurately in the range where you most need it to be accurate. For me, that would be from about half down to one-quarter. Full is full, but when it gets down to a half I start thinking about needing to fill up. That's where I'm most concerned about whether or not may gauge is correct.

[JeepcoMJ]

that confirms that i need to buy a newer sending unit to have an accurate gauge. switching the wires makes it swing the correct way but resistance differences make it float. 75+ miles after it hits empty

 

The fuel gauge inaccuracy is due to the difference in the resistance value of the fuel gauge sender potentiometer. This can be corrected by adding a resistor in series in the output to add resistance, or adding resistance in parallel across the pot to lower the resistance. I posted the two pot values some time ago here, but can't seem to find them now. :eek:

There isn't a huge difference in the resistance. The Renix sender has a range of 0 to 88 ohms. The HO sender has a range of 105 to 0 ohms. The gross difference is 17 ohms, but if you add a resistor of that value to correct the high end of the scale, the other end will be off by 17 ohms. If I were doing it, I think I'd use about an 8-ohm resister, with the hope of getting better accuracy through the mid-range of the scale and accepting some inaccuracy on both ends.

 

Or maybe find a potentiometer in that range so you can dial it in so the gauge works accurately in the range where you most need it to be accurate. For me, that would be from about half down to one-quarter. Full is full, but when it gets down to a half I start thinking about needing to fill up. That's where I'm most concerned about whether or not may gauge is correct.

 

lol. I think I will just get the proper sender from a 91 or 92 comanche...that way it will have the proper fuel pump as well.

[HOrnbrod]

There isn't a huge difference in the resistance. The Renix sender has a range of 0 to 88 ohms. The HO sender has a range of 105 to 0 ohms. The gross difference is 17 ohms, but if you add a resistor of that value to correct the high end of the scale, the other end will be off by 17 ohms. If I were doing it, I think I'd use about an 8-ohm resister, with the hope of getting better accuracy through the mid-range of the scale and accepting some inaccuracy on both ends.

 

Or maybe find a potentiometer in that range so you can dial it in so the gauge works accurately in the range where you most need it to be accurate. For me, that would be from about half down to one-quarter. Full is full, but when it gets down to a half I start thinking about needing to fill up. That's where I'm most concerned about whether or not may gauge is correct.

 

:agree: Thanks for posting this pot values Eagle.

[Eagle]

tying the brake lights into the turn switch is the only way to stop the brake lights from overriding the turn signals. if you look at the comanche harness and a similar xj one you will c that the mj uses all ten pins and the xj only uses 9. being as you have the chrysler column I'm not sure how it would work. that column was never used in a mj or waggy. take a look at the plugs and count wire on both sides. if there is one extra coming out of the column that stops at the plug that should be what you need to tie the brake light wire into.

JUST stopping the brake lights from overriding the 4-ways is potentially dangerous, and probably illegal. The Cherokee doesn't "override" anything. The Cherokee has a set of dedicated, amber lights for turn signals and 4-ways in the rear. The MJ does not. If you want to do something to ensure that you always have 4-ways, IMHO you'd need to add another pair of bulbs (one on each side) or take one bulb on each side out of the normal circuit and dedicate it as a 4-way.

 

Personally, I plan to add lights front and rear and control them with a toggle switch.

[JeepcoMJ]

tying the brake lights into the turn switch is the only way to stop the brake lights from overriding the turn signals. if you look at the comanche harness and a similar xj one you will c that the mj uses all ten pins and the xj only uses 9. being as you have the chrysler column I'm not sure how it would work. that column was never used in a mj or waggy. take a look at the plugs and count wire on both sides. if there is one extra coming out of the column that stops at the plug that should be what you need to tie the brake light wire into.

JUST stopping the brake lights from overriding the 4-ways is potentially dangerous, and probably illegal. The Cherokee doesn't "override" anything. The Cherokee has a set of dedicated, amber lights for turn signals and 4-ways in the rear. The MJ does not. If you want to do something to ensure that you always have 4-ways, IMHO you'd need to add another pair of bulbs (one on each side) or take one bulb on each side out of the normal circuit and dedicate it as a 4-way.

 

Personally, I plan to add lights front and rear and control them with a toggle switch.

 

 

this does not stop the 4-ways, it simply does not stop the flashing turn signal from continuing to turn. it allows the brake lights on the opposing side to come on (as MJ's do from factory) while the turning side continues to flash. it is in no way illegal and brings it back to factory spec.

[Eagle]

Gotcha.

 

That's okay.

 

However, the brakes must still override the 4-ways or it's not street legal.

[JeepcoMJ]

Gotcha.

 

That's okay.

 

However, the brakes must still override the 4-ways or it's not street legal.

 

and so it does. the turn signal switch takes care of that for you. :yes:

 

all that is involved is putting the wire to the brake pin, the switch (in both new and old style) does the rest.

[JeepcoMJ]

alright.

 

so what about the rest of the wires :doh:

 

I've got an entire second connector currently doing nothing, plus a connector running off of it (for the power windows/locks etc.) which does nothing as well. I need to figure it out.

 

any links to tech diagrams online?

[troy6187]

if your looking for wiring diagrams check out great lakes xj site. he has multiple fsm ready to download. 95 is one as well as 88 i beleive. if those links don't work anymore i do have them on my pc.

[TNT]

alright.

 

so what about the rest of the wires :doh:

 

I've got an entire second connector currently doing nothing, plus a connector running off of it (for the power windows/locks etc.) which does nothing as well. I need to figure it out.

 

any links to tech diagrams online?

 

 

You have those service manuals and the parts catalogs on the disc I gave you...... :yes: