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can someone make me a step by step post (rear 8.8)

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It's pretty straight forward.

-new leaf perches (get the Mopar performance perches from your local Jeep or Dodge dealership as they are cheap and beefy)

-a 1310 sized Flange adapter (I do believe that Areostar minivans and Crown Vics with the 8.8 had this size, search the internet to confirm)

-4 flange adapter bolts if the axle doesn't already have them (get them from the Ford dealership, they are cheap, metric, and wicked strong. Hardware stores will likely not carry bolts strong enough for this application)

-95 Dakota rear flex brake line (might as well replace your 20 year old one while you're there)

-pick a way to adapt the e-brake lines if so desired (there are a few different methods out there in cyberspace)

-and anything else that your particular axle needs to get into shape

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:no: Pete he needs a 1310 companion flange not a 1330 :smart: if he wants to re-use the stock driveshaft.


Basically what you are going to want to do is remove old spring perches.

Remove all paint from around where you are going to mount new perches.

Center axle

loosely mount spring plate, perch in position.

set pinion angle tack in place, then set vehicle down on perches (make sure you are still happy with pinion angle)

Weld perches in.. while you are at it.. using proper welding techniques weld tubes to the center section. This means preheating and using Hi-nickel rod, and controlled cooling.

Decide how you are going to mount your shocks... this differs between LWB and SWB MJ's

Then figure out e-brakes

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Centering an axle side-to-side only takes a tape measure. Just don't measure off of the sides of the differential. They aren't always even (as I found out with my 9"). I eventually got it right when I measured from the ends.

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how do you make sure there perfectly straight?


As stated, the tape measure is your friend. Measure twice cut once!! don't be that idiot that says I cut it twice and its STILL short!! :D


Really, its NO BIG DEAL. Your just a bit intimadated as you haven't done it yet. Step back and think about what your doing, its a piece of cake. Measure from the backing plates in works fine for me. The 8.8's diff is NOT centered. Its also not a problem. Some people have said they mounted the axle off center to better center the pumpkin and drive shaft. Then just add a spacer to one side to compinsate. I do not feel it is necessarry. My TJ has a 8.8 with a very short 18" DS and NO ISSUES from the offsett angle its running at. So the LONG LONG MJ drive shaft will never be a problem.



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yeah so do i need to do anything to the master cylinder when i put disc brakes in the back cause theres drums right now wouldent that cause my rear brakes to come on way sooner or when doing the brakes my master cylinder to overflow cause of me pushing in the cylinders?

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I wouldnt use the spring pads of an Explorer.. I would find some off of a F150 or similar ride. The u-bolt holes are closer to the right width. The explorer u-bolt holes are kinda far away from the spring perches.



I definately recommend doing this under the vehicle. Unless you really want to trust doing everything by a tape measure :no:


If it was me.. I would mark center line on the axle, and mark center line on the truck, hang a plumb bomb from center line truck and line it up. Also make sure you use an angle finder to set your pinion angle the same as you t-case out put angle

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