comanche13 Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 I'm sure most people know how to do this them selves but i would like a step by step and a list of what you need i think it help alot of people who doont know what to do like me. and also it might have disc brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy in Pa Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Search.... there are many, many sites out there on this subject. Google is your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche13 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 yes but comanche club is also my friend and I'm hoping someone knows of a site or has done it themselves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 It's pretty straight forward. -new leaf perches (get the Mopar performance perches from your local Jeep or Dodge dealership as they are cheap and beefy) -a 1310 sized Flange adapter (I do believe that Areostar minivans and Crown Vics with the 8.8 had this size, search the internet to confirm) -4 flange adapter bolts if the axle doesn't already have them (get them from the Ford dealership, they are cheap, metric, and wicked strong. Hardware stores will likely not carry bolts strong enough for this application) -95 Dakota rear flex brake line (might as well replace your 20 year old one while you're there) -pick a way to adapt the e-brake lines if so desired (there are a few different methods out there in cyberspace) -and anything else that your particular axle needs to get into shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 :no: Pete he needs a 1310 companion flange not a 1330 :smart: if he wants to re-use the stock driveshaft. Basically what you are going to want to do is remove old spring perches. Remove all paint from around where you are going to mount new perches. Center axle loosely mount spring plate, perch in position. set pinion angle tack in place, then set vehicle down on perches (make sure you are still happy with pinion angle) Weld perches in.. while you are at it.. using proper welding techniques weld tubes to the center section. This means preheating and using Hi-nickel rod, and controlled cooling. Decide how you are going to mount your shocks... this differs between LWB and SWB MJ's Then figure out e-brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck23ms Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 you will also have to get new u-bolts and spring plates to work with the 8.8 or reuse the explorer parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Whoops. Yup, I meant 1310. :oops: I corrected the original post. 1330 is what the Explorer axle comes with (if it comes with anything. most junkyards would rather unbolt the flange than cut the driveshaft). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche13 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 is it hard to center the axle and get the right dive shaft angle would it be best if i did all this once i got my lift kit in my hands I'm going with the tnt 5.5 I'm thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Centering an axle side-to-side only takes a tape measure. Just don't measure off of the sides of the differential. They aren't always even (as I found out with my 9"). I eventually got it right when I measured from the ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 This is what I did: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wdcomanche Posted November 20, 2008 Share Posted November 20, 2008 Pete thank you thats exactly the info I have been trying to find. I plan on doing this swap for the disc brakes and a master cylinder upgrade later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche13 Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 how do you make sure there perfectly straight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 how do you make sure there perfectly straight? As stated, the tape measure is your friend. Measure twice cut once!! don't be that idiot that says I cut it twice and its STILL short!! :D Really, its NO BIG DEAL. Your just a bit intimadated as you haven't done it yet. Step back and think about what your doing, its a piece of cake. Measure from the backing plates in works fine for me. The 8.8's diff is NOT centered. Its also not a problem. Some people have said they mounted the axle off center to better center the pumpkin and drive shaft. Then just add a spacer to one side to compinsate. I do not feel it is necessarry. My TJ has a 8.8 with a very short 18" DS and NO ISSUES from the offsett angle its running at. So the LONG LONG MJ drive shaft will never be a problem. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 anyone gota part number on those spring perches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche13 Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 yeah so do i need to do anything to the master cylinder when i put disc brakes in the back cause theres drums right now wouldent that cause my rear brakes to come on way sooner or when doing the brakes my master cylinder to overflow cause of me pushing in the cylinders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 I did nothing what so ever to my TJ. Brakes are awsome and work even better off road. I am able to ease down a drop off like NEVER BEFORE!! 4wheel disks are the way to go!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I wouldnt use the spring pads of an Explorer.. I would find some off of a F150 or similar ride. The u-bolt holes are closer to the right width. The explorer u-bolt holes are kinda far away from the spring perches. I definately recommend doing this under the vehicle. Unless you really want to trust doing everything by a tape measure :no: If it was me.. I would mark center line on the axle, and mark center line on the truck, hang a plumb bomb from center line truck and line it up. Also make sure you use an angle finder to set your pinion angle the same as you t-case out put angle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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