Redramman Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 I'm, replacing clutch disk,P-plate,and release bearing on 4 cylinder 5spd.1990 Comanche .The book says to resurface fly wheel it has some slighty heat marks, but somewhere I was told they can't resurface these??? :hmm: Also the trans is now out and it's still stuck in 2cnd gear even when shifter is in neutral position. (my Son tried to force it into neutral when clutch would not disengage). When I shift into other gear positions the input shaft locks up. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 What book says to resurface the flywheel? I know the Jeep FSM specifically says not to resurface. To quote: "Minor scratches, burrs or glazing on the flywheel surface can be reduced with 180 grit emery cloth. However, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc contact surface is severely scored, heat checked, cracked, or obviously worn. Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour that would be negated by machining. ..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 :agree: I think the Haynes book saids to "re-surface" the flywheel, but that's not a true statement, and the FSM is the real 'bible' on the Jeep service. I made the mistake 1-1/2 years ago when replacing the clutch (that was totally glazed) and not replacing the flywheel that had hot spots on it, now when it's run a few miles (hot), taking off from a dead stop, the clutch chatters :shake: :doh: All the effort to pull the tranny to change the clutch, yea, spent the $70 and have a complete job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 Yes I have the Haynes book. The fly wheel is'nt awfull but does have a few minnor slightly pale blue marks, the disk was not glazed.The release bearing would not hold pressure even after bleading, so thats the reason for replacement. How much $$ is a new fly wheel and is it a dealer only part??? I'll probably just sand it with 180 grit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 Are the roller pilot bearings better than the bushing type? I took the roller out and I think the kit from Napa comes with a bushing pilot?? BTW, I used a wood dowel rod just over 9/16" dia. hammerd into pilot hole filed with grease and I was surprised that worked to force out pilot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Hydraulic pressure will work every time :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 No it won't. I just made a mess. :D But then my pilot bearing had half-disintegrated and so there wasn't a smooth surface touching the dowel I used. I eventually removed it with a pilot bearing puller. But anyway, after I saw that pilot "bearing", I was far more comfortable with using the bushing that replaced it. At least the bushing can't suddenly lose it's bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 here are pictures of the flywheel do you think i can just sand it? Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Honestly, I would replace the flywheel, the "blue" streaks you have are "hot spots" and like I wrote earlier, that was my mistake. From a dead stop, 1st and reverse, my clutch chatters really bad. Also, if you check the picture here from Advance (partsamerica) you'll see the difference on a new flywheel, and what you have. Advance :doh: I had to edit my post, I was thinking 4.0, then re-read your original post, got the correct flywheel now :roll: Advance has them, and the price is not bad for the 2.5, a good investment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks, Now if I can just figure out how to get in out of 2cnd. gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks, Now if I can just figure out how to get in out of 2cnd. gear. Yea, I think that was an ole song about a Nash Rambler.........Eagle would know ;) Here's your answer- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 :clapping: Thats funny but its realy stuck. When the clutch would not disengage my Son tried to force it in neutral and now its stuck in 2cnd even if shifter is in neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 I had that happen to my Peugeot once. After a lot of frustration on the side of the road, I just kicked it real hard. It popped right out and never did it again. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 :clapping: Thats funny but its realy stuck. When the clutch would not disengage my Son tried to force it in neutral and now its stuck in 2cnd even if shifter is in neutral. More than likely, you'll open it up and find that when your son tried to force it, one of the forks jumped over a slot and got stuck. I doubt anything is broken -- you'll just need to realign everything correctly for neatral and button it up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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