MJ'87 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 don't understand it. :dunno: the MJ won't even crank, and yet the battery is fully charged. it will still run perfect if it is bump started, but thats it. i just put a new starter in it this morning and it still won't crank :wall: this is a real :hmm:
FxRacing282 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 okay so if the lights and everything works then its MOST LIKELY a key switch problem. there is a rod that runs down the colum. check to see if it moves when you turn the key.
MJ'87 Posted October 29, 2008 Author Posted October 29, 2008 yeah, i can hear a nice solid click when i turn to crank
FxRacing282 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 sounds like you have not enough power going from the starter to the battery. you can test this by taking a multimeter and set it to the ohm setting (looks like a horseshoe). place one lead on the positive battery cable at the connection on the battery and the other at the other end of the cable on the starter. then turn the key to the start position and see what your ohm reading is. it shouldnt be a double digit
MJ'87 Posted October 29, 2008 Author Posted October 29, 2008 it was like around 0. and there's 12.7 volts also
FxRacing282 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 okay, maybe its voltage I'm thinking of, not ohms. its been a while since ive had to do it.
Akula69 Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 Another way to test the starter is getting the current is attach a wire to the positive terminal and them briefly touch it to the positive terminal of the starter (don't hold it there!). Could be that the solonoid is bad on the new one.
KillerCOM Posted October 30, 2008 Posted October 30, 2008 your talking about a voltage drop test. put your DMM on the DC volt setting and put the positive lead on the starter post. then the negative on the negative post on the bat. if you don't have any voltage the fusible link in the starter lead has been fried the easies way to check if it's been fried it grab it and see if it stretches.
FxRacing282 Posted October 30, 2008 Posted October 30, 2008 your talking about a voltage drop test. put your DMM on the DC volt setting and put the positive lead on the starter post. then the negative on the negative post on the bat. if you don't have any voltage the fusible link in the starter lead has been fried the easies way to check if it's been fried it grab it and see if it stretches. yeap thats the technical name for it. its clicking though. ive heard of and seen once (only 17) positive leads that have a ton of ocrrosion and only let a certain amount of power through them. which is why you would have like slow cranking or no cranking. also ive had this happen to me. same exact thing your talking about. well turnout out to be dirt connections. the connection may look clean but don't be fooled. thouroughly clean them with baking soda and water and a toothbrush. then re connect. and try again
BLHTAZ Posted October 30, 2008 Posted October 30, 2008 I think your on to it with the battery cables. Check them out good as I had troubles and when I got in to it, I found this...
MJ'87 Posted October 31, 2008 Author Posted October 31, 2008 ALL FIXED! it was weird: "spontaneous" green fuzz. i was on my way to school on monday, stopped to get gas, started back up just fine. about six hours later no start :dunno: . weird how it all-of-the-sudden happened. thanks for everyone's help in diagnosing the problem :bowdown:
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