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Wheel bolt pattern question.


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Wheel spacers are dangerous and ill advised...especially one inch :eek: . When I was in the afermarket business, the place I worked at (4 Wheel Parts) would not even touch a vehicle if it came in with wheel spacers of any kind on it because of the liability. Do the smart thing and save up for some new wheels. :cheers:

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These are not the spacers where the lug nuts go through the spacer and then the wheel. The lug nuts bolt the spacer to the axle. The spacer itself has studs that bolt to the wheel. I have been using the same setup (although 1.75") on my Suburban for a number of years now. I got them for looks, but the added stability was a bonus. Have towed with them (upwards of 7000 pounds), have hauled drywall with them (65 sheets of 4x10 at 88 pounds each for a total of 5720 pounds, yeah it was squatting a bit. Good thing i have add-a-leafs in the rear), and put about 30,000 miles on them. Check them every time I rotate the tires (5000 miles) and no problems yet.

 

For the Jeep, I want the rear tires out a bit, but not the front. When I flex the suspension, the rear is limited by the stuffed tire hitting the inside of the wheel well, but if I stuff the passenger front tire, it almost hits the fender flare (axle shift right if the right hand side of the axle moves up due to the track bar), so my front tires can't be out any more.

 

3 solutions:

1 - wheel spacers on the rear

2 - tub the rear wheel wells

3 - get different wheels with different back set for the front and rear

 

between those, I chose #1.

 

Doesn't Pete run a spacer one one side only on the rear of his wheeling rig?

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There are spacers, and then there are spacers.

 

The type you can buy for a few bucks at Pep Boys are dangerous. The ones that sell for $50 to $100 each are machined, aircraft-grade aluminum alloy and will probably outlive an MJ.

 

Just be sure you're getting the good ones and you'll be fine.

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