robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 In the process of replacing u-joints in the front axle shafts and I can't get the rotor off. I'm using this write-up and I just got the caliper off & secured. Any tricks or tips? http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 What do you have for a MJ? 2WD is different from 4WD.... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 4WD-I know there is 20 years of rust on her-but this rotor is not moving! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Its likely just rust welded to the hub. Later models had a little "Chinese nut" attached to hold the rotor on during assembly in the factory. Check the studs and be sure there is nothing theer holding the rotor on. I don't remember for sure, if the MJ also had this. Worse case you could get a three jawed puller and get them off. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Hey CW, no "chinese nuts" on the studs and I don't own a three jawed puller. Perhaps I'll try to pull the u-joint with the shaft in place. The young children need to get the ear muffs ready because this won't be a child-friendly experience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Well, you COULD do it without removing the rotor.... Remove the three bolts that hold the hub on from the rear. Remove the cotter pin and axle nut. Pull the hub off with the rotor attached. But I gotta say, if the rotor is rust welded, that hub ain't coming off none too easy either... Good luck man!!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 just did ball joints on a xj with a hpD30. the three bolts you can take out but be careful they are 12 point. it was a 97 and i had to get an air hammer to separate the bearing assembly from the actual knuckle itself. don't be scared to use a hammer but don't be stupid either. you can try taking the tire off, and hitting every crack with PB BLASTER. the stuff is like magic i swear. if you have to you can get a torch and heat up the area on the rotor that connects it to the bearing assembly. when you put it back together. you want to load up every part where metal is on metal with never-seize. (on the brakes that is. both sides of the rotor.) for the left side axle nut you may have to use a special socket for it as the hole is smaller. we had problems. you may not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Ok, I Removed the three bolts that hold the hub on from the rear as well as the cotter pin and axle nuts and the rotors aren't budging. I just got finished soaking the front and rear of the rotors with PB Blaster and I'm calling it a night. I'll hit it with more PB in the morning and try again after work. I'll also stop by NAPA to see if they rent the three jawed puller. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 got a vice? it makes u joints ten times easier. which you may already know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Put the axle nuts back on. That is holding the hub together. Any force you use to remove the hub will split the hub and ruin it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Rotate the axle so that the out stub shaft u-joint ears are horizontal. Put a deep socket between the yoke ear and the axle tube. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel toward the socket. let the P/S pop out the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 please explain this to me because the hub is seperate from the knuckle and i just seperated two of them and put them back together w/out any problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 aemsee, I'll take your advice and replace the 3 bolts on the inside of the hub so I don't split it. Let me restate your instructions on hub removal to see if I understand... 1. Straighten wheels 2. Attach the 36MM socket wrench on the hub nut 3. Start engine 4. turn steering wheel to force wrench to loosen nut Can you let me know if I understand you correctly? A picture would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 I beat the crap out of mine with a Dead Blow Hammer... for like 3 days before it finally popped off....Pass. Side I finally got off... the Drivers Side, I never did...took the Hub/Rotor/Shaft all out at the same time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 That's not very encouraging. I have the u-joint puller tool for only 2 more days. Time to PB Blast some more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 24, 2008 Author Share Posted September 24, 2008 Does anyone know if the 3 bolts in the rear of the hub need to be in or out in the method Superwade references? I want to give this one a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 They would at the very least need to be backed out some to give the hub room to move... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 Does anyone know if the 3 bolts in the rear of the hub need to be in or out in the method Superwade references? I want to give this one a try. I had all of mine out, but I wanted the whole thing (Hub/Rotor/Axle Shafts, etc) to come off to bare knuckle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 aemsee, I'll take your advice and replace the 3 bolts on the inside of the hub so I don't split it. Let me restate your instructions on hub removal to see if I understand... 1. Straighten wheels 2. Attach the 36MM socket wrench on the hub nut 3. Start engine 4. turn steering wheel to force wrench to loosen nut Can you let me know if I understand you correctly? A picture would be great. No,NO,No....leave the three hub bolts out. Put the AXLE nut back on if you are planning on beating on the hub/rotor or use a puller. The outer stub shaft and axle nut keep the hub together. The socket goes in between the outer axle u-joint ear and the edge of the axle housing tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Where superwade has the bolt and nut is where I put the deep socket. Yes, take the three hub bolts all the way out. If you do it this way you can leave the axle nut off if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Where superwade has the bolt and nut is where I put the deep socket. Yes, take the three hub bolts all the way out. If you do it this way you can leave the axle nut off if you want. Yah, I used a short socket extension on mine (that pic was lifted off another forum, but was the same basic idea of what I did) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 That's not very encouraging. I have the u-joint puller tool for only 2 more days. Time to PB Blast some more. you don't need a u-joint puller. you can use a hammer and a vise. its just the same and probabally much faster. atleast, thats my expierence after doing all the u joints on my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 Success tastes good! I removed the rotors by using the bolt and the magic of power steering. I removed the 3 bolts off the rear of the hub and the axle shaft (with hub attached) came out with just the tap of a 3 pound hammer. The u-joint swap was a piece of cake but I need to get new dust shields as they were rusted to pieces. Thanks for everyone’s help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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