ejndssn Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Well Iwas lucky to find a tcase out of a 99 xj and here is my trouble spot i can't use the 4wd since this tcase setup is electronic and to keep the original setup i going to have to rebuild it(vacuum). Unless i can get the electronics to work with the my 89 original configuration. now would be a good time rebuild the original t-case so that i can get back to 4wd since i am still with a d35 and would like to up grade to a d44 or if i have to a ford 8.8 i know that these fords are plentiful and is probably the least expensive i would have find a matching front axle which brings me back to the electronic vs vacuum tcases i would continue to search this site and others to see what i need to have it done if need be :ack: some help would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 What's "electronic" about it? Speedo? 4wd light? Those can be worked around. Are you worried about shifting the front CAD axle? That can be worked around too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 hopefully you have a 23 spline output shaft on your transmission...if not, then you're SOL already cause you need to swap the input shaft. as for being electronic, wtf do you mean? does it have a shifter arm for your shift linkages to hook up? if so, then scrap all the vacuum hoses and buy a posi-lock kit for the axle disconnect. the vacuum stuff is worthless to attempt to keep. hell, you can even permanently lock the axle disconnect in...but DO NOT spend the time rebuilding a case simply because you want to keep out-dated equipment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 hopefully you have a 23 spline output shaft on your transmission...if not, then you're SOL already cause you need to swap the input shaft. as for being electronic, wtf do you mean? does it have a shifter arm for your shift linkages to hook up? if so, then scrap all the vacuum hoses and buy a posi-lock kit for the axle disconnect. the vacuum stuff is worthless to attempt to keep. hell, you can even permanently lock the axle disconnect in...but DO NOT spend the time rebuilding a case simply because you want to keep out-dated equipment 2nd on the above. The only thing electronic on it is the speedo pickup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 2nd on the above. The only thing electronic on it is the speedo pickup. ...which literally swaps out with the mechanical one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 2nd on the above. The only thing electronic on it is the speedo pickup. ...which literally swaps out with the mechanical one yup. plug on the 4wd switch sense would be different too, but that would swap out as well. as said before the spline count is the real issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 hopefully you have a 23 spline output shaft on your transmission...if not, then you're SOL already cause you need to swap the input shaft. as for being electronic, wtf do you mean? does it have a shifter arm for your shift linkages to hook up? if so, then scrap all the vacuum hoses and buy a posi-lock kit for the axle disconnect. the vacuum stuff is worthless to attempt to keep. hell, you can even permanently lock the axle disconnect in...but DO NOT spend the time rebuilding a case simply because you want to keep out-dated equipment 2nd on the above. The only thing electronic on it is the speedo pickup. The only issue i have is that i will have to change the vacuum setup which the 99 does not have i should have been more clearly on my concerns what would it take to configure this 99 tcase in support of the orginal configuration. i do believe that i can replace the speedo servo with the cable configuration. Are you worried about shifting the front CAD axle? That can be worked around too. I do believe that this is my only concern is the ability to switch between 2wd and 4wd. as for the spline count i am good there i have 94 tranny in there. just tring to get the facts and what ever write up that is avail to do this :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 throw your concern over vacuum systems out the window. get some washers, remove CAD, shim it over, and lock it in. if you don't like that idea, then on ebay for a hundred-something dollars you can buy a posi-lock kit which is cable operated to remove the vacuum system and give you master control. this means you can put the vehicle in 3wd with 4wd enganged (this is good for tight turns where you need traction), or you can pull the cable and put it in 4wd. I'm in the process of building my own posi-lock (very simple to do) for my 87 comanche, as I'm running a 95 t-case in it which doesn't have the vacuum switches. to put the vacuum switches in, you will need to split the case, remove internals, drill a hole, tap the hole, insert the vacuum stuff. the vacuum stuff is in no way connected to the motor, so removing it will not cause poor running conditions, and it in no way has anything to do with shifting the transfercase into 4wd...it only switches the front axle into 4wd. i understand wanting to keep it "stock-ish" but to be honest, the vacuum system is more problem than necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 this means you can put the vehicle in 3wd with 4wd enganged (this is good for tight turns where you need traction), or you can pull the cable and put it in 4wd. On a side note.. the whole 3wd thing ONLY works if you have a front locker. Without a locker in front and the disco disengaged, neither of the front wheels actually have power. If you just powered the front with it disengaged and nothing going to the rear, the outer shafts would sit and do nothing, and the inner shaft would sit and spin twice as fast as the carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 this means you can put the vehicle in 3wd with 4wd enganged (this is good for tight turns where you need traction), or you can pull the cable and put it in 4wd. On a side note.. the whole 3wd thing ONLY works if you have a front locker. Without a locker in front and the disco disengaged, neither of the front wheels actually have power. If you just powered the front with it disengaged and nothing going to the rear, the outer shafts would sit and do nothing, and the inner shaft would sit and spin twice as fast as the carrier. haha...right you are correy was thinking this as i typed. I'm literally in the process of doing a manual vacuum switch right now for this, so I will post up what I've figured out with that. plans are to go to air-actuated with an air actuator off of a MACK water truck's PTO drive (my dad builds trucks). this will eliminate vacuum. I'm probably going selectable locker whenever the $$$ is there for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broythomas Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 I just put a 242 in my comanche (Was a 2wd) and it doesn't have the vaccuum lines either. So I got a vaccuum switch from an old full size wagoneer, took all the unnecessary stuff off of it, put a knob I had laying around and ran the lines to the dash. Now I can manually activate and deactivate the cad and have 2wd low also. Used new lines from the hardware store. Also got creative and added a light to light up when it is engaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 i have searched this site for speedo cable information. and i am not sure if the information pertains to specific models/years or does really matter :dunno: at the moment the speedo cable is not registering the speed on the dash. my question is there a certain way that this gets connected or do i need to change anything. I think that it needs to be seated correctly baba louie. :hmm: let me know if i'm out to lunch since i have (99tcase) or that i have to work it sum more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broythomas Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 There are markings on the speedo gear case that tell you how to align it in the transfer case depending on the number of teeth your speedometer gear has. There are three different settings. If you took it out recently, you may just have to rotate it to the correct position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 thanks for the info hope this weekend i have some time to do a quick read and knock that out btw do you have any pic's of your work of mechanical art work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broythomas Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 I don't, but give me a couple of days and I can get some. Too sick today to go out in the rainstorm we're having. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broythomas Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 O.k here's the pics if I'm doing this right Here's my new dash switch the knob turns left or right to activate. The knob is an aluminum knob from quadratec I had a 6pack for my cj and had one left over. The 4wd light is a standard LED from the hardware store and a piece from the vaccuum switch I dissasembled from a wagoneer glued together. I only used the inner part of the wagoneer switch and threw the unnecessary stuff out. With the light if the vaccuum lines fail, the light will no longer work either and I'll know I lost 4wd Here's lines from dash to axle One line to vaccuum source under hood routing And to axle And the actuator Also ran a jumper wire to the light in the dash from the fuse box (The orange one) . Taking the dash off is now difficult, but what's behind it is simply three lines to the three nipples on the switch. The center is the line in and other two are out to the axle. There are three wires, the one from the fuse box and two from the axle. I combined the fuse box wire and one axle wire into one and hooked to one of the light's wires and the other axle wire to the other light wire. The switch at the axle finishes circuit when the axle is engaged. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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