Muffler Routing and Bed Removal

[jage]

Question 1: My muffler goes from the driver side of the 2.5L and crosses directly under the very rear of the oil pan. Then it goes all the way down the passenger side and back over the rear axle. It's first in line to get crushed at the oil pan, but I'm not sure where else to put it because of the fuel and brake line cluster and the gas tank.

 

Where are your mufflers routed? Any better ideas?

 

Question 2: I started to remove the bed and one of the three bolts in the emergency brake cable Y bracket came out then the second one broke. I threw up my hands ... I'm trying to decide: pull the bed to work on the rear shackle hangers and rusted bumper or leave it in place. Is it worth the effort?

 

Any thoughts welcome. I would like to put the bed back when I'm done - partly because I don't have the facilities to build a truggy.

[Pete M]

The gas tank is also bolted to the bed. I've seen the underside of my truck and that bed is never coming off for any reason. Rust sucks.

 

I don't recommend the stupid flex tube (it got punctured the first trip out when it contacted the front driveshaft) but I routed my pipe up close to the trans. Seemed like a good idea at the time, I just used the wrong material. After the flex tube debackle I replaced it with a stock piece. Haven 't hit it on anything yet so I'm just going to run it that way until I do. I have more pressing matters for my limited funds now that I'm building my '90 up. :D

 

Flex tube

 

 

 

Stock:

[Bounty Hunter]

Crawl under any TJ and check out how the downpipe is routed, right in front of the oilpan sump where it can't be crushed. I flattened the stock exhaust in my YJ because it went under the bellhousing, now it's routed like the TJ. Make sure they leave room to access the starter when they build the new downpipe. Any muffler shop worth thier weight can custom build one.

[jage]

Yeah the gas tank looks like straps coming from the driver-side rail and under the plastic cover that then make an upside down L shape. Through the foot of the L is a long bolt with what looks like a J-hook on the other end. The J hangs in slots in the bed, and there is a nut that tensions the straps. My thought was to use bolt cutters on these... the top should drop out and the bolt post and nut should come off the straps. Then I can either replace the J hook or possibly fab something so the tank doesn't tie into the bed anymore.

 

Any skid plating options for the MJ gas tank?

[rebeljeeper01]

long bed or short

[jage]

short

[pingpong]

Pulling the bed is a major PITA, especially if you want to put it back on. If you never plan on using it again, I say pull it. There are like 8 bolts that auctually hold the bed in place, plus a ground wire under the drivers side light. Alo you will have to un-bolt the filler neck, gas tank, and e-brake cable holder. Then plan on using an engine lift or 4 strong friends to pull it off.

 

 

As for the exhaust, you can buy a new downtube for 26 bucks, new el cheapo Cat for 60bucks, then weld a Glass pacck right to it 12 bucks, and buy a turn down for a couple of bucks and have a brand new exhaust for lil or nothing. BTW I have never bashed my down tube, and I wheel pretty hard over nice size rocks.