DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2006 Author Posted June 5, 2006 Really, okay, all is good then. I'll probably get another 8.8 and put my disks on it. That might prove interesting, but should be possible.
Pete M Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 But only most rangers. I've read that later models with the 4.0 v6 or the FX-4 package got the strong 8.8, just not with disks. Be careful with the backspacing. I've got 4" of it on my 8" rims with 12.5" wide tires. That's the most I could find in a reasonably priced steel rim.
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2006 Author Posted June 5, 2006 I'm getting junk yard rims... 8" wide and about 3.5" BS, IIRC. Hopefully it'll look almost street legal.
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2006 Author Posted June 5, 2006 That's not too bad. I can get tractor supply fender flares if I get VI'd. Then take them off. Although, a VI would mean they'd see some of the other things. Well, I've had decent luck with the cops so far. Maybe I should push it?
feerocknok Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 But only most rangers. I've read that later models with the 4.0 v6 or the FX-4 package got the strong 8.8, just not with disks. I read that in Petersons, which I trust. FF sounds nice. Think you'll need it on 35s?
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2006 Author Posted June 5, 2006 Hope not. Maybe I'm gonna go with a ford 9". I can get one cheap. I dunno what they'll hold though, because I'm gonna move up to 37s or 38s eventually...
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2006 Author Posted June 5, 2006 I think I'll jsut go fullwidths. Seems easiest. Now Pete, what did you do for a track bar with your ford radius arm abomination? Curious. I'm debating if I should keep all the bracketry in the stock location or not. Just because Jeep did it doesn't mean it makes sense. I want to inboard or outboard (would definatly prefer inboard) my long arms on the frame. Obviously I could rebuild the arms and keep the brackets in the same place. Or I could more all the brackets inwards about two inches. Hmm.
Pete M Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 I used the Bronco trac bar, cut the ends off it, rotated the bend up so it cleared the diff better (the bend points forward in the bronco since the track bar was pretty much parallel with the ground), then had the axle bushing welded back on along with the bushing from the axle end of the stock Jeep trac bar welded to the frame end of the new bar and used Rustys track bar bracket up there (with small spacers around the bolt since the holes in the bracket were slightly larger than the hole through the Jeep bushing). It is bastardized to say the least. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with rod ends and tube.
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