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stock gear box cleaned Remove the four main bolts inside you’ll find the retaining clip on the ballbearing case the bearings travel side to side in I started out by pulling as many balls out as possible. I didn’t have a magnet on a stick so I glued a magnet to a stick. take the shaft side nut loose with a spanner I don’t remember the number of ball bearing. But did get a pic of the ball bearing size. In some of the case there is two different styles of bearings some chrome. And some dull finish. Mine had both styles alternating but the same size. use the cylinder to push the aluminum end cap out with a wooden hammer handle to pry with after removing the lock ring Remove the snap ring from the bottom . Pull the seal out and then press the old bearing out while you have it this far apart. My deal was melted from trying to get the pitman arm off. The spot to drill is pretty easy to find. The castings are flat in this area. drill into the veins of the box but not to far as to go through the other side. I used a 1/4 npt tap Then blow through the box a few times with compressed air and maybe oven pour some fluid through the holes and then hit it with some compressed air. When reassembling the most important part is the bearings on the worm screw. The need to be added evenly along the screw. I had to move it back and fourth a few times as I was dropping them in. I used a little grease to hold them inside the u shaped case And filled it up before sticking it back in place and fighting the bolts down if you get it back together and it moves for a moment then stops your bearings are out of wack. Take it back apart and make sure the bearings are in correctly

Hi All, I have what I think is a strange issue. Haven't been able to figure it out, and hopefully it's an easy one. I recently replaced UCA/LCA/Coils and brake lines for a lift. Everything seemed good for about 2 weeks. NI have a couple issues... 1) I keep getting this 'clunk-clunk-clunk- that sounds and feels like broken/blown out shock about about 25mph. I'm pretty sure it's the UCA bolts. I have JKS adjustable UCA, and I'm pretty sure the bolt size is 10mm for the upper (to body) bolt hole in the body, but I remember looking at the UCA bushing hole and it seemed like it had a little 'nub' down in the middle of it...like the 10mm stock bolt would fit, but only contact that nub....>>>what is the correct bolt size to be using here? I thought this joint had to be very tight so I wouldn't get play in it...? 2) I now have a very odd thing happen. A typical day , I'll drive down the road with my steering wheel totally straight, as I aligned it the day before, and everything is tracking straight and true...cool. I sttarted my rig this morning and the steering wheel is rotated a good 15 degrees clockwise?!? and now I drove to work with it all rotated like someone played a prank on me. Is my steering box going bad?..no connection that I can tell is loose...what should I check? Thanks for the help.

After I successfully replaced the RMS, oil pan gasket and starter, the Jeep developed a horrible shake anywhere from 45MPH+. We took it to the shop and all they suggested was a Steering dampener and and alignment. Knowing that wouldn't solve it, I looked into the track bar and found that they TRE had play in it. Thinking that was the cause I ordered a Moog Problem solver stock replacement from Rock Auto and replaced it. Well, that didn't fix the problem. I rotated the tires thinking one of the front would be unbalanced. It helped a little but didn't solve the problem. Now I can feel the steering go back and forth while I hold the wheel straight and true. Things I have done: -New track bar. -Looked over all the tres and from what I can tell they are all fine. -Aired the tires to 34 psi and rotated them from to back. -Ball joints are good. No movement when the tires are grabbed at 12 and 6. Now folks, could bad control arm bushings be the cause of this? When I dropped the oil pan, I had to remove the two Uppers in order to let the axle drop far enough to lower the pan. When I tightened the two uppers, I'm fairly sure the Jeep was still on stands meaning the bushings had to fight the force of the Jeep going to ride height. And on the flip side, the lower bushings had to fight the weight of the axle dropping farther then normal droop. The steering box has a leak around the pitman arm. Is this just a bad seal or could the box be going bad also attributing to my horrible shake problem? Edit: Jeep information. -1988 Comanche. Base. 4.0 4x4 -Automatic trans(have not looked into which one. Figure its an AW4 with comfort option) with what i'd assume to be an NP 231 -Stock suspension, steering, and everything else under the sun.