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This isn't really a build thread so much as a journal. I posted up as many of the old pictures I've got from over the years. Its been a great little truck and has many memories attached to it. TDi swap, frame stiffening stuff begins on page 5, three-link stuff begins on page 6. Keep in mind that I am updating this thread as I progress. Got her in October of '07 from another CC member: KYMJ A nice, rust-free, 4x4 MJ with all the right stuff for a good price. Had to jump on it!

I'm in the process of getting rid of the Rustys junk under my 1992 mj short bed 4wd and need some advice for a better ride. Right now the truck is lifted 5ish inches in the rear and 4 to 4.5 in the front with a cheap rustys short arm and spring over kit. I have installed WJ knuckles and brakes. Eaton elocker and 4.11 gears. Went to full crossover highsteer setup with chevy Tie rod ends and WJ brakes. I custom made a new track bar and currently my drag link and track bar are almost parallel and level. I'm in the process of replacing rustys springs with ome springs and a cavfab 3 link in the front. I have bilstien 5100 shocks all around. Here is where it get interesting I have a ford 8.8 disk break rear end I installed and after getting it put in I have realized that I have sagging lead pack on 1 side. The overload leaf has already been removed from the previous owner and it currently is pretty stiff ride in the back. I have contemplated going with oem replacements for $350 rated at 1230lbs. Alcan springs quoted me $630 plus shipping they said they could make a set rated at 1000lbs. Or I'm thinking about ripping it all out and doing a 3 link or 4 link rear with 2 inch lift TJ coils which should fit perfect. It's looking like with the gas tank I don't have room to make a 4 link or crossmember to place the 3rd link on so I'm not sure that having the 3rd link on 1 side might be to much stress for the unibody. I was thinking of making plates that bolts to the frame for the lower control arm mounts and I think that will be fine but the upper control arm mount has me stumped. I have thought about going with an xj or tj or yj fuel tank in the spare tire area but don't know if they would fit. Then I could make a crossmember for the upper and lower links. Has anyone ever seen this done? Do you think it's worth the investment of probably $1000 in materials? Would the ride be any better with say 2.5 lift ome soft springs from rear of a tj then the leafs that are under it now. I will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.

I'm running a Rough Country long arm kit on my MJ. I went to adjust it this weekend and found this... The flex joint on the upper control arm was shot. The metal disk was taco-ed, and the joint was completely unusable due to the threads being damaged. I went down to the local 4x4 shop where I bought it, and I was told that it was fairly common for those joints to blow out. Rough Country doesn't sell just the joints, but they do sell rebuild kits, which were a week out. I decided I was going to upgrade Here's the link to them if you're interested: http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1262 The only issue with them is that the Rough Country ones have twice the thread. If yours are threaded out pretty far, these might not have enough. For me, they worked perfectly. They thread in and are the same exact size as the Rough Country ones. These are much more heavy duty. I did not install lower johnny joints from Currie, I kept the RC ones because they weren't damaged. But these are the same size as the Rough Country lower joints. But the Rough Country ones had quite a bit more thread. I don't know if these would fit, but that is my guess if you're looking to upgrade: http://www.currieent...ct.aspx?id=2629 Here's the Currie Johnny Joints installed on my Jeep I really like the RC long arm, but the joints kinda suck. Quick upgrade and waaay beefier!

hey just bought a 1987 comanche long bed, metric ton, 4.0 4x4 5spd p a shjot transmision! was looking at putting a iron rock offroad 5.5" critical path long arm on talked to the guys very cool.... just wandering how much lift can you put on comanches before i need a sye and a new drive shaft?? and if i do need that whats the most efficient route? thanks hope i get some good feedback!!