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Hello Everyone. I'm fairly new here and I have been lurking about for a couple of years since owning my Comanche and did not sign up until recently. Most of every part replaced is junkyard OEM or NOS from the dealership I work at. At last here is Little Red. She is a 1988 2.5L 5-speed Pioneer Comanche. Built 11/15/1987 and she left the factory bare minimum as a Pioneer trim. She started with an idiot light cluster and white trailer like rims but came with floor mats with matching dash mat, mud flaps and a tailgate liner. Since owning her I have done some upgrades such as a 5/6th gauge cluster, various factory lights add-ons, clock, headlight warning buzzer, sentinel headlamp module, hood insulation, AMC jeep nameplates, 2.5Litre nameplate, and a NOS hard plastic valve cover. I changed the rims to the star "Jeep" engraved rims from the trailer looking rims. The only non factory thing added is an LED under hood light strip. Year 1: Upon acquiring her I did basic repairs and fluid changes to bring her back to life. Fuel pump was dead and had to replace that and various other tune up pieces to get her going again. My father redid the door panels and headliner. After I got her running, brown coolant started showing up and could not figure out why. Before the Jeep rims I repainted the white rims to a black color so they didn't look awful. Took me a couple of years to hunt down a set of 5. Year 2: Figured out the cause of the brown coolant being a blown head gasket and changed that in the summer. Surprisingly the head gasket was 30 years old and I'm surprised is lasted as long as it did before it gave out. Sadly due to pressed time I did not have the head rebuilt until this year. A few months after changing the head gasket I changed the motor mounts and due to a bad drive shaft causing awful vibrations I destroyed the AX-5 transmission. Had to replace everything from the bellhousing to the driveshaft. Lesson learned, never underestimate the 2.5L. After that I learned to seat the pilot bushing all the way into the flywheel. Year 3: Early this year I changed the water pump out and the window seals replaced. In march I replaced the oil pan gasket and repainted it as well, cleaned up the engine and engine bay. Had the head rebuilt and upgraded to a leather steering wheel recently. Also replaced the 8 slot grille with the 10 slot variant and replaced upper radiator hose. End goal is complete restoration with some other additions. Sorry about that. Just three years of summarizing. I will upload more pictures from early on as I find them.

I'm looking to buy a doner 97 xj to do the face lift on my 89 comanche. The factory ac has gone out, does anyone know if the ac system will just swap over from the xj? Then I don't have to worry about troubleshooting and retrofitting the old r12 system.

I was going though a Cherokee at my local junkyard and saw this yellow box little research later, I found this to be the cruise control module. So I look up to see everything I need and found a website that has the factory manual on the cruise control system. Link to it http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=78 Also Haynes manual for Cherokee/Comanche/Wagoneer on 12-31 has the electrical diagram for the cruise control List of items you will need: Cruise Control Module Control Servo Speedometer Cables Upper and Lower. Upper cable is picture below Speed sensor Turn signal/ windshield wiper stalk with cruise control switch Wire harness Clutch Switch not necessary but is nice if you have manual transmission Vaccum Valve/Brake Switch i believe Vaccum hardline on the servo to the vacuum reservoir Vacuum reservoir (football shape) Finding Parts Most of the parts are behind/under the dash near the gauges and steering column. The Servo is in the engine bay on the passenger side near the closed coolant bottle. Speedometer lower cable is near the output of your transmission/transfer case.

Does anybody have any insight or experience removing the factory, integrated trailer hitch from an '88 XJ? It's the kind that bolts to the rear bumper, in addition to the frame rails (see below). I want to put a standard 2" Reese hitch and use a drop shank to accommodate my lift, but I'm kind of stumped on how to remove this one.